[Baren]: The mailing list / discussion forum for woodblock printmaking. Baren Digest Thursday, 23 July 1998 Volume 04 : Number 222 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: [Baren 1220] ------------------------------ From: Don Furst Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 10:40:52 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Baren 1221] inking roller caution A recent posting recommended inking rollers for oil-based ink from the TN Lawrence Company. I have a beautiful brass-framed roller that, however, turned to a sticky, unusable blob only a year after purchase. I was careful never to get water on it or use any solvents stronger than kerosene. I believe the material was Treothane, a kind of polyurethane. I see by the latest ad for Lawrence on the back page of Printmaking Today that they are offering a new type of roller that doesn't melt. Make sure you know what you are buying. ------------------------------ From: Graham Scholes Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 10:42:01 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Baren 1222] Re: inking roller caution Don wrote: >I have a beautiful brass-framed roller that, >however, turned to a sticky, unusable blob only a year after purchase. Don, Just a year seem unreasonable for a roler. You should check with TN Lawrence Company to see if they stand behind there product. You never know, there may have been a defect. If they will not do anything and quote you there policy is one year guarantee then my I suggest the following. Get connected to a heavy....a Manager..... and ask if they would like to know your policy. Tell them you will post this poor service and support on the world wide net and advise hundreds maybe thousands of printers out there. Let me know how you make out. Graham ------------------------------ From: Graham Scholes Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 10:58:01 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Baren 1223] Re: Sun Bleaching for Mold April wrote.... >I have a friend who is an art conservator, who told me the best way to deal >with LIGHT mold, is to sun bleach it. This is done by immersing the entire >print in a tray of water and leaving it in the sun a few hours. Don't forget about someones suggestion to put the prints in the freezer between printing sessions. I have been doing it this week and believe me you sleep a lot better. Dave you will be interested to know that is so warm (85 F) here just now that printing is best done 5 am to 9 am and 8 pm to 12 midnight. The between hours? Well you sleep. Graham Kansas City Gary, melting in 105 F, probably thinking we are wimps here on the coast. eh. ------------------------------ From: Matthew.W.Brown@VALLEY.NET (Matthew W Brown) Date: 22 Jul 98 14:37:07 EDT Subject: [Baren 1224] Freezer Graham wrote: >"Don't forget about someone's suggestion to put the prints in the freezer >between printing sessions." The someone was Matt Brown and I want to take credit for this 'discovery'! Matt Brown ------------------------------ From: Andrea Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 14:05:02 -0700 Subject: [Baren 1225] Re: inking roller caution About the rollers. They do disintegrate over time. How long it takes depends on how frequently they are used. It has something to do with surface tension. The company recommends rolling them on your ink table between printings (without ink) as a way of extending life. Heat and sun are other factors. My rollers lasted over three years with no problems. The company has a new material of high quality that they say does not self destruct so perhaps its worth trying. A high quality brayer of the right size is a must, at least for my way of printing so getting a good one even if it must be replaced regularly is a must. Are there any other companies making brayers for hand use out there? Andrea ------------------------------ From: Gary Luedtke Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 16:51:44 -0400 Subject: [Baren 1226] Re: Sun Bleaching for Mold 85 degrees Graham! That's a coool spell, here. For the last few nights it hasn't got below that. I get up at six, look out at the thermometer, and it's 85 to start with, gets warmer as the sun comes up. I will say that 85 is warm when you're just used to lower temps. but when it gets over 100, 85 starts looking cool and comfortable. Hope I see it some time soon. Thank goodness for air conditioning. I suppose you don't need it there most of the time, though it would be a boon in the studio for controlling temperature and humidity. Gary ------------------------------ From: David Bull Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 08:31:01 +0900 Subject: [Baren 1227] Re: 85 degrees I don't know what all those 85's and 105's mean ... Here in Tokyo we're 'only' getting to 38 or so ... But the other number - the humidity - _is_ around 100. This year's rainy season just won't seem to come to an end. When you come in from outside you can sometimes _smell_ the mold in the air in the house. Busy with the 'kabi killer' ... (a special spray to keep mold off the walls) Dave B. ------------------------------ From: Graham Scholes Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 18:10:27 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Baren 1228] Re: 'AquaGraphic' Relief Ink Trial Offer Naresh wrote, >Graham. I do appreciate your feedback. I am here to learn >and unless I understand your needs, I can not meet your expectations. AND >An now to the offer of samples of 'AquaGraphic' Inks. >Matt Brown, Andrea Rich and James G Mundie have been gracious >to offer their time and efforts to try out Green Drop Ink formulations. I will be very interested in the findings by the three. Is it possible to apply the your inks with a Maru bake (Inking Brush) Graham ------------------------------ From: Gary Luedtke Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 22:04:36 -0400 Subject: [Baren 1229] Re: 85 degrees 38 sounds much cooler Dave, though it's the same as we have here, high 90's Fahrenheit. Sounds like we're all sweating it out this summer. Do you have a.c. (Air Conditioning)? Gary ------------------------------ From: David Bull Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 15:03:13 +0900 Subject: [Baren 1230] Update time ... As I mentioned the other day, the girls have been very busy ... The most recent results of their labours went up to the Encyclopedia just a few minutes ago (although it certainly took more than a few minutes to upload!). It is the full text and illustrations of Hiroshi Yoshida's book - Japanese Woodblock Printing, from 1939. Yoshida published this book (in English - this is not a translation) with the intention of spreading his knowledge and love of this art/craft out to the peoples of the world. But 1939 wasn't perhaps the best timing for a Japanese artist to 'go international', and the book has become extremely scarce and hard to find. I am very very pleased to be able to help a little in passing on his message, and in making this volume available for you to study and enjoy. But beware - it's very long, and very comprehensive. Don't sit down expecting to read it all in one go ... Dave/Himi/Fumi ------------------------------ End of Baren Digest V4 #222 ***************************