[Baren]: The mailing list / discussion forum for woodblock printmaking. Baren Digest Thursday, 15 April 1999 Volume 07 : Number 527 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jeanne N. Chase" Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 09:21:05 -0400 Subject: [Baren 3995] Re: Baren Digest V7 #525 Sarah I discovered that the Rembrandt catalog has a page referring to sized paper. plus a lot of other information as to Acid, deckle edges, etc. 1 800 622 1887 outside USA 609 397 0068 Jeanne ------------------------------ From: Jean Eger Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 06:46:16 -0700 Subject: [Baren 3997] Re: Baren Digest V7 #525 Welcome to the list, William. It was interesting to note that you come to printmaking via photography. I've spent many enjoyable hours making photoetchings and I like to turn my photos into woodblocks, too. Perhaps it is creative laziness that causes me to scan the photos, then polarize them into two or three values or colors. (Graham says DRAW, DRAW, DRAW!) Then I can separate the colors, print out the results and paste them to the block. Voila! A perfectly registered print. Well, it's not quite that easy. I am very interested in reading your applications of photography to hanga printmaking as well as your ideas about everything else. Jean Eger ------------------------------ From: Wanda Robertson Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 07:46:17 -0700 Subject: [Baren 3998] Re: reduction print Hi Sunnfunn, welcome to Baren, Hmmm....there are a couple of people here who are doing reduction prints, and probably many more who know how to do them. There are as many ways of making green as there are shades of green. I would say to go ahead and mix as your instructor advises. You are there to learn, and you will only learn by doing. My experience in mixing colors on different layers of reduction prints has been to use translucent colors to get the different shades and tints and then to use opaque colors as the last layers. But I'm sure you can do it lots of different ways. I am assuming you are using oil based inks - - in a school setting. Let us know how it turns out! Wanda ------------------------------ From: "David Stones" Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 00:39:03 +0900 Subject: [Baren 3999] Re: The mallet Dear Gayle and All, Re: The discussions on the use/non-use/need of a mallet. Most comments seem to only concentrate on the force or extra force that such a tool will give - and this is one of its uses but, in carving out a woodblock, especially the larger areas (probably with "islands" of wood to stop the paper sagging in) the mallet is also a gentle tool. One you tap with lightly and chip away small pieces with complete control of the chisel. Just using arm strength or even finger strength will and does create the chance of either slicing your printing surface or worse - as you often cannot push a gouge slowly. The mallet, therefore, gives the control and you can go very near to your printing edge, with even a large chisel, without fear of accidents. Apart from this, the small tap to get the kento chisel into its place (and to cut straight downwards so the kento isn't sloped) is a must. In my opinion, you do need a mallet. It's size is relevant to the wood the head is made from... and mine is a quite small (barrel shaped, 80mm x 50mm* but wood unknown!) one supplied by the hanga chisel makers. The whole tool, head and handle, weighs just over 200 grams (under 7 oz). It's just the job and will last for years. *About 25mm = an inch. Hope this is some help, Dave S ------------------------------ From: agatha Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 08:52:19 -0700 Subject: [Baren 4000] Re: The real thing....will almost. Graham Scholes wrote: > http://www.members.home.net/gscholes/ConcertRussian.html wow. i love those prints, graham! i particularly like the way you sectioned off areas in the russian dance, the white background is used to your advantage in a very interesting way. these are so different from your lighthouses, i was shocked. ------------------------------ From: agatha Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 09:00:52 -0700 Subject: [Baren 4001] Re: Baren Digest V7 #525 they do seem to mention when the paper is sized or unsized in the descriptions of the papers, sometimes. some of the descriptions say "mist only", etc. looks like the masa is sized, it says that the masa possesses great wet strength for its weight. the owara mulberry says to mist rather than soak. sekishu says "excellent wet strength." those are the only ones that say anything close to "sized". hope this helps. i'll bet if you called them up, they might be able to answer your questions about sizing. ------------------------------ From: agatha Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 09:06:37 -0700 Subject: [Baren 4002] Re: The mallet David Stones wrote: > Re: The discussions on the use/non-use/need of a mallet. wow, i found that incredibly helpful. i have never used a mallet, but as i am starting a woodcut that is roughly two by three feet, i think i will try it. thanks, david. ------------------------------ From: Graham Scholes Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 09:45:33 -0700 Subject: [Baren 4003] Re: The real thing....will almost. >wow. i love those prints, graham! Thanks for your kind comments. The Director of the Victoria Art Gallery was up to the studio and her comment was "what a magnificent breakthrough for you", and went on suggesting this could well be another signature on my style of work. Oh boy..... we'll see This morning I start on the 'Dance of the Sugar Plum Fairy'. Graham ------------------------------ From: Cucamongie@aol.com Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 15:18:33 EDT Subject: [Baren 4008] the size matter (ha ha) Hi folks - I called Daniel Smith today, and spoke to a very helpful sales person whose name is Chris, and his extension is 497, if anyone wants to call and speak to a friendly & helpful person there (I also told him this was for an internet woodblock forum - the info was not in their catalog so he had to go digging through papers, etc to get the info but he called me back within an hour - anyway, he gave me the rundown on their Japanese papers as far as sizing. These papers have light sizing: Kitakata, inomachi, tableau, Okawara, Iyo Glazed, Kasuiri, Seikishu, Mulberry, Masa, Ogura Natural, Owara Mulberry, Kusiri, and Chiri. Kinawashi has medium sizing. OK?? all the best, Sarah ------------------------------ From: Sunnffunn@aol.com Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 18:33:09 EDT Subject: [Baren 4014] Re: (no subject) well the instructor is a college professor lol and he had me using a blue mixture lightened with white then said he was wrong and had me mix a green with blue and yellow and use a transparent pigment medium hopefully this is working as i have a nice green but i was concerned because he was shifting direction i am using oil based inks thanks for the response Marilynn ------------------------------ From: Sunnffunn@aol.com Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 18:37:29 EDT Subject: [Baren 4015] Re: Japanese Technique with the Press i have seen wood blocks run thru a press successfully you will need a sturdy press and take care with the pressure set the pressure before you ink your plate when setting place the plate upside down on the press bed and set it under the roller tighten down but now really heavy just enough to give it a good amount of pressure it may take some practice to get the pressure accurate good luck!!!! ooh run it plate side up and be sure to use an accurate guide when placing your paper ------------------------------ From: David Bull Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 08:28:36 +0900 Subject: [Baren 4016] Re: various ... Ruth wrote: > I'm sorry, I want to buy the special case for the exchange but I can't > find the address. The info you need is at: http://woodblock.com/forum/admin.html Please note that payments for the case should go to Himi-chan, not to John ... *** Re strange posts from Idaherma Williams ... She's having trouble with her mail program (as you've all seen). We're working on it so please be a bit patient ... (and perhaps remember your _own_ newbie days on the 'net ...) *** Sunnffunn@aol.com wrote: >i have seen wood blocks run thru a press successfully you will need a >sturdy press and take care with the pressure etc ... Everybody seems to have missed it, but Ruth did an Encyclopedia page on this just a couple of weeks ago ... http://woodblock.com/encyclopedia/topics/012/012_frame.html *** Ruth wrote: > I'm very impressed with the prints on Aprils website. It almost makes > me think I would like to try hanga prints. I wonder if they can be > done on a press? If by 'hanga' prints you mean waterbased work, then I guess your main problem would be the blocks drying out while you arranged things in the press bed. This kind of Japanese work moves along at a very fast pace - brush on the pigment and paste, and then just an instant later - get the paper on top and start burnishing. With both a wet block and wet paper, there is no time to waste; the impression has to be taken very quickly indeed ... *** Buried in work this week ... doing 200 (+10%) copies of the newest surimono print, and it's 20 (or maybe 21) impressions ... Doesn't leave a whole lot of time for email ... 'till later ... Dave ------------------------------ From: BHearn2001@aol.com Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 21:31:03 EDT Subject: [Baren 4017] Re: Baren Digest V7 #526 British Columbia Lighthouse etc. internet address: I was just ready to read through this beautiful website when my screen froze up and I lost the Baren Digest V? with the message and address. Please resubmit or send to me directly. bhearn2001@aol.com and thanks and I am taking April's August workshop. My woodwork tools are very basic and not too fine. If I were to upgrade what basic tools would you suggest I invest in for her workshop? This question is for everyone since we have been discussing chisels etc. ------------------------------ End of Baren Digest V7 #527 ***************************