[Baren]: The mailing list / discussion forum for woodblock printmaking. Baren Digest Thursday, 10 June 1999 Volume 07 : Number 589 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: horacio Date: Wed, 09 Jun 1999 10:21:20 -0300 Subject: [Baren 4571] Re: Baren Digest V7 #587 Gayle wrote: > Does anyone know if McClain's is online? Gayle I received the following message from McClains two weeks ago. Maybe it answers your question. Horacio > Dear Horacio, > Thank you for your inquiries. We will be happy to send > you our latest catalog (1999) We accept Visa, Mastercard > & Discovery cards. Currently we do not have a Web Page, > although we are in the process of setting one up. > However, it will be some time before it is up and running. > > We will put a catalog in the mail to you tomorrow. > > Again, thank you for your interest, Elaine Chandler" ------------------------------ From: Barbara Mason Date: Wed, 09 Jun 1999 07:39:47 -0700 Subject: [Baren 4572] Re: Baren Digest V7 #587 Hi Gayle, I am going into McClain's today to pick up a few things for the "workshop" at Graham's and look things over, trying to figure our what all this stuff is . I will get them to send you one while I am there. It is a feeling I had when I first started printmaking in 1985, what the heck is all this stuff for? The Phone # is 800-832-0163. Barbara Gayle Wohlken wrote: ------------------------------ From: James G Mundie Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 11:00:40 -0400 Subject: [Baren 4573] A quick and clean proofing method Anybody ever tried this one? If you are in the middle of cutting a block and want to take a proof to see how it looks -- but don't want to introduce ink or wet pigment to the block yet -- get yourself a piece of increasing-difficult-to-find carbon paper. Place the carbon paper transfer-side up and then place a piece of any sort of paper (typing stock works fine) on top of that. Give it a careful rub and... bingo! A nice little proof to guide your hand. I especially like this method because it leaves no residue on the block itself. Any drawing lines on the block remain clean and clear. Mise le meas, James Mundie Philadelphia USA [95+ degrees Fahrenheit and climbing, with humidity out the wazoo] ------------------------------ From: Graham Scholes Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 09:30:23 -0700 Subject: [Baren 4574] Re: A quick and clean proofing method James wrote.... >If you are in the middle of cutting a block and want to take a proof to >see how it looks -- etc.. It is interesting when you said "Anybody ever tried this one?" and how sometime one takes for granted everybody knows about the method of verifying register of one plate to another. When you do this it is better to take a piece of Frosted Mylar. When you get the rubbing you easily can move to another plate to make sure the register is OK. Regards, Graham ------------------------------ From: Elizabeth Atwood Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 14:54:05 -0400 Subject: [Baren 4575] And knobs! Michelle..........kinda interesting to find someone else who has done printing with a homely little wooden drawer knob. It is far superior to my old wooden spoon. I have had to learn more about barens from this group. I have a few very "cheap" barens....some are good....others miserable. Thus far, I am reluctant to spend thousands of dollars for a "good" one.......and would want to have in-person training for wrapping my own as a few have mentioned on this forum. What ever works.....ElizA ------------------------------ From: Gregory Robison Date: Wed, 09 Jun 1999 08:48:05 +0300 Subject: [Baren 4576] Re: Dave's tapes Bucharest, 9 June 1999 Michelle Morrell wrote: I sent it to Georga with mailing labels for Arafat in Bulgaria and Judy Mensch. Who is "Arafat in Bulgaria" ? Gregory Robison ------------------------------ From: Julio.Rodriguez@walgreens.com Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 15:00:44 -0500 Subject: [Baren 4577] Re: Barens and knobs! This question is for those Bareners that use barens....( I use a good student grade bamboo baren from Aiko's Supply in Chicago). What is the advantage of the bamboo sheath covering over other types of cover ???? I can see the advantage of the baren tool with it's wide area of coverage and it's many contact points over other methods (spoons, knobs, etc). I can also see how the fibers would give & take and the advantages of different number of strands within the baren.....etc. But what is the advantage of the bamboo sheath covering itself ??? (other than perhaps that it's vegetable/organic makeup allows for a very tight (leather like) wrap on the baren proper ). Could this not be replaced by other wraps....burlap ? leather ? cloth ? Thanks........JULIO ------------------------------ From: Julio.Rodriguez@walgreens.com Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 15:34:49 -0500 Subject: [Baren 4578] Re: Dave's latest print Dave.....regarding your latest Surimono print......technical question here... The gentle gradation you achieved in the women's dresses (light to dark)...is that achieved thru two impressions ? or by the way you mix pigment & paste on the block ? or by just using less pressure on the baren ? Thanks......JULIO ------------------------------ From: BHearn2001@aol.com Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 16:45:03 EDT Subject: [Baren 4579] No Subject Sylvia, I would like to have a list of print studios in the Edinburgh area. I am planning a trip there next year. Actually any open studios. I will learn or begin to learn hanga in August at April's workshop. I have always used oiled based materials with few exceptions. I would like very much to have some input on what printmakers find is the less expensive(cheapest?) but most productive means of sharpening sort of middle of the road cutting tools. I don't want to purchase new ones until just before, during, or after April's workshop. I have enjoyed reading all of the information on sharpening. So far I use a not too good stone and pray, some elbow grease and pray, a little spit and pray. Most of my printmaking is creative,explorative and "breaking the rules" kind of stuff. But since I have signed up for the 3rd Exchange I decided I had better clean up my act a little bit, turn down the bluegrass and let the dog out and honker down.BTW are any of you familiar with the book BREAKING THE RULES: A Photo Media Cookbook by Bea Nettles, produced by Inky Press Productions? Truly yours in need of some "sharp" advice. bhearn ------------------------------ From: David Bull Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1999 07:42:05 +0900 Subject: [Baren 4580] Re: Dave's latest print Julio wrote: > Dave.....regarding your latest Surimono print......technical question here... > > The gentle gradation you achieved in the women's dresses > (light to dark)...is that achieved thru two impressions ? > or by the way you mix pigment & paste on the block ? or by > just using less pressure on the baren ? (The print Julio is talking about is at: http://woodblock.com/surimono/1999/1-3/images/1-3large.jpg) It's two impressions Julio. First there is a 'base coat', the thin colour you see at the end of the gradation is actually printed under the whole area. Then for the second step, the same pigment is used, but much thicker, and applied only to one half of the brush. Short gradations like this are done with two impressions, but gradations that cover a wider area are done with more, gradually moving the gradated area further each time. My max so far is four ... *** > What is the advantage of the bamboo sheath covering over > other types of cover ???? > > I can see the advantage of the baren tool with it's wide > area of coverage and it's many contact points over other > methods (spoons, knobs, etc). I can also see how the > fibers would give & take and the advantages of different > number of strands within the baren.....etc. > > Could this not be replaced by other wraps....burlap ? > leather ? cloth ? Lots of people have tried (and are still trying) lots of alternatives. Many of these do work, but for all-round performance/convenience/price the original bamboo is hard to beat. It's thin, allowing the inner coil to 'scrape' the paper firmly. It's tough, holding up under incredible punishment. It's resilient, bouncing back after a few minutes rest. It's cheap, costing less than a hundred yen each. It's convenient, being changed with only a minute's work. It stretches when wet and shrinks when dry, thus allowing an incredibly tight cover to be wrapped - a very _very_ important point. It takes a coating of the camellia oil nicely, not 'soaking' it up. Need any more reasons? *** Bumped into a new web site the other day, and any of you who want to get an overview of the contemporary print scene here in Japan should head over to: http://plaza17.mbn.or.jp/~YOSEIDO/index(E).htm It's in English, and shows small images of hundreds of contemporary Japanese prints (woodblock, etching, etc. etc. you name it). Dave ------------------------------ From: Bea Gold Date: Wed, 09 Jun 1999 16:46:33 -0700 Subject: [Baren 4581] baren covers Julio wrote: > What is the advantage of the bamboo sheath covering over other types of cover My exact question Julio - just had a disaster trying to cover a baren I made and love - using a lenghth of chain pulled through a cardboard disk and glued down round and round - the kind used for light or drapery pulls - looks like a string of ball bearings - tried to cover it using a Bamboo sheaf purchased from McClain - it was too small - it split even though I kept it covered with a wet towel - and followed instructions - not only need 4 arms but more knowledge about what was going to happen - ah the mystery of hanga! Thinking maybe - smooth leather - leatherette - thick smooth lycra - anyone else? Bea ------------------------------ From: Graham Scholes Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 17:49:41 -0700 Subject: [Baren 4582] Re: And knobs! Elizabeth wrote: > .....and would >want to have in-person training for wrapping my own Elizabeth, The next time you come to visit your daughter in Seattle or (where ever) you must come to Victoria and I will show you. It is something that would be difficult to explain. Graham ------------------------------ From: Graham Scholes Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 18:04:05 -0700 Subject: [Baren 4583] Re: Dave's latest print Julio wrote: >> What is the advantage of the bamboo sheath covering over >> other types of cover ???? Dave wrote.... >Need any more reasons? And I think one more that no other material offers. The ribbed texture of the bamboo aids in the burnishing technique. Graham ------------------------------ From: Graham Scholes Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 18:14:02 -0700 Subject: [Baren 4584] Re: baren covers Bea wrote: > just had a disaster trying to cover a baren I made ... Bea I can appreciate the frustration you experienced Bea. This will the first lesson that the guys get at the workshop. My Baren is in terrible shape and I am going to wrap it first thing. It helps if you have strong and large hands. It also helps if you have 4 hands. 2 to hold 2 to wrap and tie. Barbara is bringing a digital camera. Just maybe we can get some shot that will help you with the process. Graham ------------------------------ From: Aqua4tis@aol.com Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 21:19:52 EDT Subject: [Baren 4585] Re: Dave's latest print dave regarding the gradations that you got in your print..... is this the technique refered to as bokashi? thanks georga ------------------------------ From: Barbara Mason Date: Wed, 09 Jun 1999 19:54:34 -0700 Subject: [Baren 4586] McClain's Catalogue To Gayle and everyone else, I was into McClain's today as I am an old friend of Elaine's and Sarah's and wanted to get some wood and a few sheets of paper for Graham's workshop. I was overwhelmed to say the least at all the stuff, but had a good visit with Elaine. Their new catalogue is going out daily, and yours went either yesterday or today, Gayle. So everyone can be expecting catalogues soon and if you don't get them in the next week or so, call Elaine. She said they delete you from the active mailing list if you haven't ordered in three years. It is a beautiful catalogue with a plug for Graham's class, so that last slot should fill before the class starts. I really am waiting to learn things correctly, so I will let you all know how it goes, I am sure Graham will be an excellent instructor. Barbara ------------------------------ From: Mariten@aol.com Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 23:08:49 EDT Subject: [Baren 4587] Re: Acetate/plexi/oily folks Jim wrote: > Any suggestions for the best way to handle the printing of the acetates? I use acetate to proof second and third states on reduction prints also. It does not move at all, sticks to the block and stays put and I am able to pull a proof which then can be held right to the previous state to see exactly what the addition/deletions will look like. Wonderful stuff. I print with wooden implements and sometimes a plastic baren with no problems. Jean, I find plexi and other plastics at a Home Depot, Payless Cashways, or similar. They come in many sizes so sometimes I get just the size I need; otherwise most plexis and derivatives can be easily cut with a stanley knife (and some elbow grease) or with a jig-saw or circular saw with the right type of blade. Graham, OILY FOREVER!!! jus' kidding, of course. Oil based ink still has a special draw for me, I like the sound of it as it rolls and love the way it sits on the paper, especially when combined with others, which gives it a special shine. On this last exchange print I layed it on thick and on dry paper so that it would shimmer to match the image I was printing (you'll see why). Welcome all new bareners! If you would like to check out the site below, there is a mural in the studio waiting for your prints to be posted on it. I have three more that need to go on but haven't had time to update. Regards and health to all, Maria in LV ------------------------------ From: Barbara Mason Date: Wed, 09 Jun 1999 20:41:36 -0700 Subject: [Baren 4588] Plexi Maria, In my other life (my non art life) my husband and I have owned a plastic company for many (25) years. The best way to cut plexi if you do not have a circular saw and special blade is to clamp your sheet to a table with a steel rule and "C" clamps. Run your (sharp) mat knife down the edge next to the steel rule several times. It is best to go about 1/2 way through the plexi. Then "rip" the plexi, do not try to break it as you would metal. Grab the end to the right of the steel rule and start lifting it up and down, you will find it rips if you have cut 1/2 way through. Be sure to wear a dust mask if you saw plexi, these particles are not good for your lungs. This works well up to 1/8 inch, we usually saw it but I have cut it this way in my studio many times. Be especially careful with particles and fumes from styrene (if you ever find you substitute it for plexi) and cut it with a saw. Styrene is not as chemical resistant as plexi and much more brittle. If you use polycarbonate the same rules apply, it is more flexible than plexi but is easily attacked by most solvents. Many lithographers use a polycarbonate tympan and I have seen etching presses with polycarbonate bed covers. It is hard to keep them flexible as thinner will eventually attack them and make them very brittle (as well as cloudy). The generic name for plexi is acrylic. Plexi-glas is a trade name but has been used so much in the market place, everyone uses it for all brands of acrylic, much to the iritation of other manufacturers. I really like your mural wall, what a good idea! Barbara ------------------------------ From: Sherpsm@aol.com Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1999 00:26:46 EDT Subject: [Baren 4589] Re: baren covers (A Cheat) The 4 handed Baren Covering technique is a great idea. Unfortunately I work alone and only have two hands available most of the time. Also I am not the best knot maker. So I cheat a bit and I will share my crime with you. After soaking, measuring and trimming my Takenokawa, Bamboo sheath (from McClains), I start the process. I use stationary store "binder clips" to hold my folded pleats in place. (Large is good so as not to put too much "bite" on the sheath.) Once I am ready to do the end twist, I remove the "pleat" clips. I twist the end to a good point and put a clip on my first "twist." I clip the twist down to the Baren. This is just to secure it in this initial twist position and so as not to loose the pleats. A last tightening twist follows later. Then I use my two hands to pleat, fold and twist the other side or end. Once the second end is twisted, all clips are removed. I make sure that my folds over the back of the "Ategawa" (the lacquered backing) are snug. Then both ends are tightly twisted parallel to each other. Then holding the two twisted lengths parallel and together, I quickly join them with a "tie wrap." (A length of plastic with a "one way loop" on an end. Insert the other end into the loop and pull. The wrap can be tightened to itself with one hand. More below.) Then I place a tie wrap close to the base of each twist. I found it easier to leave the length in the Bamboo sheath itself. I do this so that the twisted length of one end extends almost to the base of the opposite twist. This way I can secure the tie wraps away from the center of the Baren Handle being created. I then trim the extraneous length of plastic tie wrap. This method is far from perfection yet I learn a bit each time I do it (and progress is such a good thing). I now use fewer binder clips. I find the folding and pleating of the sheath around the Ategawa is kind of "danced" into the "twist" of the end. That is, once I start maybe my second fold, I must see how the folds want to start the "twist." Once the twist is established I find easier to make the next pleat or fold (and it will be a tighter one). And I am concerned that a clip could damage the surface, though it was not done so in the 5 times I have used this method. The "tie wraps" or "cable ties" hold well and can sung up tightly very quickly. If you do use these, be careful after you trim the extra length of plastic. The trimmed ends can be quite sharp. Experience talking here; Ouch! Tie wraps go under several names - they are used to hold plumbing and electrical cables in place. They can be found in different sizes in just about in any hardware store. A small size is working for me. Someday I hope to wrap my Baren as I saw it come out of its wrapper. Till then, this is keeping me working. Good Luck - Joe Sheridan ------------------------------ End of Baren Digest V7 #589 ***************************