[Baren]: The mailing list / discussion forum for woodblock printmaking.

Baren Digest              Wednesday, 12 April 2000      Volume 11 : Number 968

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Gayle Wohlken <blueman@pantek.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 12:15:18 -0400
Subject: [Baren 9234] Re: Baren Digest V11 #967 

Welcome J.D. Roehrig (do we call you J.D.?).  Your work has a nice light
feel to it,
watercolory.  I, like Barbara, look forward to meeting you at Graham's workshop.

Good luck, Maria, and also I thank you for helping me understand my
netscape mail program.  If only I had read the "help" option in the
toolbar, I could have figured out this stuff by myself.  There it all
was, just like you said.  Okay, people, 
Coordinator #6 knows how to send group messages and how to store them as
a group in my address book.  Thank you Maria, and Dave, too, for your help.

Gayle
Burton, Ohio (USA)

------------------------------

From: "Maria Arango" <maria@mariarango.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 09:53:23 -0700
Subject: [Baren 9235] Re: opening and workshops 

Well, thank you all for your good luck wishes!
This is the start of a pretty hectic season for me, but when I take "the
plunge" (and any plunge for that matter), I tend to do so head first, eyes
wide open, and with mucho gusto.
So I just finished my first workshop last Tuesday, more people now know what
a woodcut print is and what a reproduction isn't, and can say "aisuki" and
"Viva paper towels" and "baren" and know what those terms mean. So now it is
on to my second workshop, starting today. Waaay too much fun, this being an
artist.
This April and May I have 4 art fests coming up, busy season for that in the
spring because soon it will be 110 degrees out here and no fests can survive
that! And this year marks the opening of many more of these cultural events
in Las Vegas, so I am truly thrilled. With that, I had to arrange for some
displays and tents and things and I am just having a blast! I usually
demonstrate the fine art and craft of woodcut printmaking during the events,
and people really become fascinated with what we do, my fellow Bareners.
I plan to put up some pictures and a checklist on how to get ready for one
of these events and some neato fun stuff on my website...in June sometime!
I will breathe later.
Nice work Pete!
Welcome all the new [Baren] names. I look forward to "meeting" the rest of
the Exchange 6 participants throughout these weeks.
Health to all,
Maria

PS Swap with meeeee, you ought to swap with meeeee--is anybody listening?
wooaaa (it's a Phil Collins song)

------------------------------

From: Cucamongie@aol.com
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 18:06:46 EDT
Subject: [Baren 9236] decalomania, new member 

Hi all, welcome JD, sounds like you've been on an
interesting journey, look forward to checking out your
website when I have a minute.  Thanks Carol for the
decalomania description, sounds like a lot of fun, the
looseness of the technique & sounds like you'd get some
fun surprises along the way, I'll probably have to try it!
As I'm sure most of you know, April and I are having a
2-person show which will open next Thursday in NYC, anyone
passing through the area in the next month or so, hope you
can stop by- also anyone in the Newark, NJ area, one of my
prints will be in a Prints 2000 show at a place called
Sumei Multidisciplinary Arts Center on 19 Liberty Street,
(opening April 22, up til June 1).  I delivered my work
there today and it's an interesting place, an arts
collective very interested in connecting with the
community, they do things like have art workshops for
children who are living in shelters, etc. and they have
all kinds of things going on there, sometime while the
Prints 2000 show is up, there will be a salsa band playing
there! Ay caramba- best wishes all, 

Sarah

------------------------------

From: Colleen Corradi 
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 18:25:19 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Baren 9237] an introduction on myself 

Dear members of Baren,

in a recent mail I was asked to introduce myself so that all 
the members for exchange #6 will know who I am, since I keep 
quite silent on the forum and just read the messages.

Well, I am from Italy, Pescara and have studied art in 
Italy, London and New York.
I have started printmaking seriously only since last summer 
and have produced quite a few prints based on the theme of 
music which inspires me greatly.
If you want to have a look at my works (although the page is 
not updated) go to
http://www.monoprints.com/colleen.html

Before getting into printmaking I was a painter and worked 
mostly in oils. I am now "converting" to all means of 
printmaking as I love experimenting new techniques of 
various kinds.

What else can I say about me? I am also interested in war 
and its various aspects, under the human side of it. If you 
want to see some of my art related to war see 
www.geocities.com/SoHo/Studios/4009

That is all I think,

Colleen Corradi - Italy

------------------------------

From: "Daniel L. Dew" <ddew0001@tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 19:28:39 -0400
Subject: [Baren 9238] Odds and Ends Questions 

Hey, I've got a few questions that are driving me crazy.  Come one and come
all to answer the village idiot!
#1.  Why wet paper and not dry?  Does the ink "look" better when the paper
is wet?  Last longer? deeper color hues?  Why??????  I want to try hanga,
but only if will add to MY images and style.  I don't feel the need to "be
like Mike", so I want to be sure before I go for it.

#2.  Why carve the wood for fine detail?  Has anyone woodburned it?  Is that
a "no-no"?
#3. For reduction type work that I do, how would one keep the paper damp and
not moldy over a long period of time  (like a month)?
#4.  Why varnish/shellac before carving?  Does it hold the fine line better?
Can you see what's been carved better?  I understand the value of this
technique prior to printing, but before?

If anyone's out there, ping me back.  If not, see ya tomorrow after 5:00.

Dan Dew
Too close to Mickey Mouse to be sane

Where has Graham gone?

------------------------------

From: Julio.Rodriguez@walgreens.com
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 18:59:39 -0500
Subject: [Baren 9239] Re: Odds and Ends Questions 

Okay Dan, I'll take a stab at some of your questions, but the answers are coming
from another beginner so...

1- Why wet vs. dry ? If you are using watercolors the paper will expand unevenly
unless the whole paper is "soft"
(think in terms of softness not in terms of wet!) enough to absorb the colors,
making registration nearly impossible. The areas with color vs. the blank areas
will wrinkle. The difference is that with dry oils the ink stays on top of the
paper, while with hanga and water stuff the pigments actually get deep into the
paper thus achieving the hanga "look".

2- I guess if we burned the wood to get the lines.....we could not called it a
woodcut ???????

3- Put it in a plastic bag and freeze it.

4-  The varnish/shellac serves as a protective layer and allows you to cut a
finer line, specially when going against the grain.


Okay....now for the correct answers....can someone point Dan to the right spots
in the encyclopedia ????

Thanks.....Julio

------------------------------

From: B Mason <bemason@concentric.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 17:04:20 -0700
Subject: [Baren 9240] Re: Odds and Ends Questions 

> #1.  Why wet paper and not dry?

Because the ink is more readily absorbed into damp paper.

#2, wood burning would not be deep enough for hanga, but for relied printing
using a roller it would work.

> #3. For reduction type work that I do, how would one keep the paper damp and
> not moldy over a long period of time  (like a month)?

Put the paper in the freezer, wrap it up tightly and smoothly in plastic.


> #4.  Why varnish/shellac before carving?  Does it hold the fine line better?
> Can you see what's been carved better?  I understand the value of this
> technique prior to printing, but before?

You will have to ask Graham, I just do what I am told and when someone who does
such great work as Graham says to do it, I just do it.
Barbara

------------------------------

From: "Daniel L. Dew" <ddew0001@tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 20:31:20 -0400
Subject: [Baren 9241] Paper questions 

I have tons of MASA paper, unwaxed.  Anyone ever try this in Hanga?

Dan Dew

thanks for the answers, it helps.

------------------------------

From: "eli griggs" <eli.griggs@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 21:31:58 -0400
Subject: [Baren 9242] Re: knives 

Hi Jack,

    First of all, thanks for responding to my querry, though  I guess I
should explain my thinking  a bit.

    I have decided to follow David's lead and use several profiles of knife
for block cutting, in several sizes, while keeping to a budget.  I also want
to order my tools while working, by using different woods, each distinct by
its color.  This is very handy when using tools that are the same size, but
different in profile.  For example, Ebony for accutely angled blades for
cutting tight curves, Rosewood for 'normal' Hangi edges and Pink Ivory or
Tulipwood for straight line cutting.  I might even end up with a couple of
left beveled tools in Yellowheart, Paela or  Osage Orange .   It matters not
if the blades come handled or not, I will end up making my own.

    As for expense, the blades offered by McClain's or Woodlike seem to be
about two to three inches long, while the blades at The Japan Woodworker
measure six to seven plus inches in length.  As I must put different
profiles on the majority of whatever blades I buy, parting longer blades in
two will prove only the smallest increase of labor.  Viewed in that light,
the longer blades really would provide a real economy for my situation.
That is, if the quailty of the steel is appropriate to the task of cutting
hardwood blocks.

    Besides, I really, really like making stuff!

Eli Griggs
Charlotte N.C.
USA

------------------------------

From: "George Sutton" <gsutton@optonline.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 21:43:49 -0400
Subject: [Baren 9243] Re: Paper questions 

Dan

I hope it works. I am new to Baren and am completing the the last of four
blocks for my first print. I went to Pearl Art Suppies in New York and they
advised using masa unwaxed. I have run a few tests and such. The masa seems
ok. In a few days I will be doing the real thing, trying my first print. If
the masa works well, I will make you an offer you can't refuse. (Assuming
you have no use for the masa!)

George Sutton

------------------------------

From: "Maria Arango" <maria@mariarango.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 19:11:22 -0700
Subject: [Baren 9244] Re: knives  

Most of my knives are Flexcut Palm style from Woodcraft.com. They work just
peachy on hard woods, cherry, maple, even used them on end grain maple
(engraving block) to clear out big areas. Keep them sharp as razors.
The knives I obtained from McClain's are 'detail' knives, not available in
Merrican woodcutting knives. I have several 1mm to 3mm knives and chisels
for tiny work.
Oh, for the big woodcut (8' x 4') we used a jackhammer and a frontloader;
scooped those areas out in no time! JKOC
Maria

------------------------------

From: Jack Reisland <reislandj001@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 18:14:24 -1000
Subject: [Baren 9246] Re: knives 

eli griggs wrote:
>     First of all, thanks for responding to my querry, though  I guess I
> should explain my thinking  a bit.

Ahh! I got it! Nifty idea, I like it. As for the quality of the steel, and how
it will work for carving different woods, you will have to buy some and try
them. Although they are listed as white steel, and should do fine, the quality
of steel can vary according a whole range of variables, forging heat, tempering
process, the skill of the forger, the quality of the materials used, etc. And
when you do find out how it works, and handle some up, let us know and post
photos! How will you do the tapered ferrules?

Jack
Aiea, Hawaii

------------------------------

From: krisalder <krisalder@cc.usu.edu>
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 22:55:15 -0600
Subject: [Baren 9248] RE: Paper questions 

Hi Dan,

I have used Masa paper for reduction prints with oil based inks, and was 
really pleased with the results, but I haven't used it for hanga.  If it's 
unwaxed, I don't see why it shouldn't work. If you are dampening the paper, 
the fibers of unwaxed masa will be able to absorb some of the moisture and the 
watercolors too, won't it? Are you going to experiment with it? Anybody else 
have any ideas?

Kris

------------------------------

From: Graham Scholes <gscholes@home.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 19:13:24 -0700
Subject: [Baren 9249] Re: Paper questions 

>I have tons of MASA paper, unwaxed.  Anyone ever try this in Hanga?

Last week I used it for drawing and found it to be reasonably tough. 
I thought and (think) it would work for our sport.   Try it and let 
us know.

Graham

------------------------------

From: "Keri & Tom Marion" <smarmy@att.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 23:45:33 -0700
Subject: [Baren 9251] reduction prints 

hi. this is gonna sound so dumb, but.. well.. i sound dumb a lot anyway..
so..

what is a reduction print?

i keep seeing the term.. and i searched the encyclopedia on the main page..
no reference :(

please explain before i burst.
thanks :0
k. marion

------------------------------

From: "Philip Smith" <smithart@pacifier.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2000 00:15:26 -0700
Subject: [Baren 9252] Re: reduction prints

Hi Keri,....so you're a night owl?
A reduction print or sometimes referred to as a suicide print,....All of 
the colors are done with one block,..i.e. you cut out the white areas on 
the first printing,..you print yellow,..you cut out the areas that will 
remain yellow on the second printing,...you print blue,...then you 
cut,..etc. You have to print your whole edition of one color,...then you 
print your whole edition of the next color and so on,...
Ultimately, you chop away your whole block,....so there's where the word 
reduction or suicide comes in,....at least this is what I've 
done,...there is probly a whole section if you go to the main page of 
Baren,.......give it a try,....a very fun way to work,...oh yes,..plan 
on where the colors overlap,.......after 3 printings you could have as 
many as 9 colors,....Is that right???? Good luck, Philip

------------------------------

End of Baren Digest V11 #968
****************************