[Baren]: The mailing list / discussion forum for woodblock printmaking.

Baren Digest               Friday, 21 April 2000       Volume 11 : Number 980

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From: Julio.Rodriguez@walgreens.com
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 12:07:42 -0500
Subject: [Baren 9373] Skokie exhibit coverage 

The following message was passed on to me by the library. I guess our exchange
exhibit is getting quite a bit of
coverage around the country. Perhaps some of you in the west coast are familiar
with Roxane and this printmaking
goup.

Thanks Roxane! My kids currently attend school at East Prairie.............what
a small world!

Julio

">>The following message was submitted by Roxane Gilbert (gil@art2u.com) on

>>I am featuring your Printmaking Exchange show on the home page of Art2u at
>http://www.art2u.com. Art2u is the web home of the California Society of
>Printmakers, Los Angeles Printmaking Society, and Northwest Print Council.
>Please advise me when you have printmaking shows in the future. Also,
>please advise who I would contact with an exhibition proposal. (I grew up
>in Skokie! I went to E.Prairie School many years ago.)

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From: Gayle Wohlken <blueman@pantek.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 13:18:08 -0400
Subject: [Baren 9374] Re: Baren Digest V11 #978 

Welcome to Baren, Matthew.  Combining prints with sculpture is something
I tried and found  quite exciting.  We look forward to seeing photos of
your finished piece.  

John Ryrie, I'm glad you're still around as one wonders when some voices
are quiet for a while.  Good luck with your current exhibit.  

April, thanks for showing us the photo of the workshop, and success to
both you and Sarah on your show.

I'm working on creating my mini roller and will let you know if it
works.  I want it to be no more than a quarter inch wide.  I found one
crude way it works, is to put a quarter inch wide piece of rubber tubing
over a paintbrush handle, then just roll
this with the handle going parallel to the inking plate.  This wobbles a
little, but it kind of works, but I'd like to try this in a more
polished version.

Gayle

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From: "Maria Arango" <maria@mariarango.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 10:31:30 -0700
Subject: [Baren 9375] Re: ephemera 

Jean, great idea to print on acidic paper! In fact, Matthew, if you print on
very cheap newsprint, the prints will yellow while in exhibition. You can
get good gradual decadence with only a week or two of exposure with
newsprint. The newsprint turns a variety of yellows to tans to grayish hues.
Oh boy, another experimentalist!
Maria Geezer

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From: "Maria Arango" <maria@mariarango.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 10:41:01 -0700
Subject: [Baren 9376] Re: tiny roller  

Gayle, try dowels with a simple handle fashioned of stiff wire screwed into
the ends? Maybe a little piece of leather glued all the way around the
dowel. Sounds like it would work!
Good luck,
Maria

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From: "Jeanne Norman Chase" <studiojnc@prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 15:48:34 -0400
Subject: [Baren 9379] Re: tiny roller 

Gayle

You can get little teeny tiny rollers at hobby and craft stores. They are
mostly meant for artistic stamping and large stencils. They also have rather
thick plastic with silly flowers and stuff on them for stenciling. ignore
the flowers and cut your small circles , there is enough space.
I use my wee roller alot.

Jeanne N.

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From: Jack Reisland <reislandj001@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 11:48:23 -1000
Subject: [Baren 9380] Re: infomation 

> My question, is do I take the prints out of the frames, moisten them with
> an atomizer of water and put them under weights for the ones that are
> heavier weight paper and the prints on  japanese, lighter paper, should I
>  just put them under weights or what would you recommend??.

The most important question to answer before proceeding is the kind of ink
that was used in the printing. Oil based inks can be safely re-wet (use
filtered water) and pressed. Remember to change the boards often, so they
will dry as fast as possible to eliminate the risk of foxing. Water based
inks, such as those used on Japanese prints, can sometimes (but not often)
bleed when re-wet, so you must use greater care when considering wetting
them. If the are just wrinkly, but not creased, you could try just raising
the humidity of the paper before pressing them. An easy method is to spread
them in the bathroom, and run a hot shower to steam up the room. Not very
technical, but it works, just don't splash on them! And mind, don't put them
- -in- the shower!

Jack
Aiea, Hawaii

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From: Roxanne Sexauer <woodcuts@csulb.edu>
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 14:46:10 -0800
Subject: [Baren 9381] Re: Baren Digest V11 #978 

Gayle,

The "Dick Blick" Company sells (hopefully not "sold") a wonderful little
brayer the exact size you are looking for. I imagine they have an online website.

Roxanne

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From: jenvey@juno.com
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 18:21:56 -0500
Subject: [Baren 9382] Re: infomation 

Thank you for your advice Jack, I think I will try the raising the
humidity first. The inks were oil based, and the prints are curled not
creased.. 

I was thinking about the discoloration of the previous prints that I had
hinged with archival tape that I had to moisten myself. In retrospect, I
wonder if it was any fault of the tape or possibly chemicals in the water
that I used to moisten the tape with... Do you think that possibly there
would have been no discoloration if I had used distilled water or
something similar to moisten the tape in lieu of using water from the
faucet???

Jean

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From: Jack Reisland <reislandj001@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 16:44:56 -1000
Subject: [Baren 9383] Re: infomation 

> Thank you for your advice Jack, I think I will try the raising the
> humidity first. The inks were oil based, and the prints are curled not
> creased..

If the inks are indeed oil based, they would not be harmed by a light
misting.

>Do you think that possibly there
> would have been no discoloration if I had used distilled water or
> something similar to moisten the tape in lieu of using water from the
> faucet???

 Hard to say without knowing more about the tape, and your water. Although
it is certainly possible that the staining came from your water, you are not
introducing that much water, so I would also cast a suspicious eye on the
tape. Unfortunately, the label "archival" has little more meaning than "100%
natural".  In mounting your prints, I would suggest that you use no adhesive
directly on the print at all. Instead, use archival polyester or acid free
mounting corners or strips, available from  www.lightimpressionsdirect.com .
They are in the Albums and Pages/Mounting Materials section. Otherwise, I
would recommend that you use acid free paper mounting hinges with rice or
wheat paste you prepare yourself with distilled or filtered water.

Jack
Aiea, Hawaii

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From: Studio Dalwood <severn@acay.com.au>
Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2000 14:36:45 +1000
Subject: [Baren 9384] Hi Matthew 

Hi Matthew

You can relax, we are not all traditional printmakers and there are a
few contemporary printmakers like yourself who link their printmaking
with contemporary art practice.

I've done a bit of work with prints + boxes myself. You might like to
consider not printing each individual square one at a time. There are
two other options. The first is to make a large plate with multiple
squares on it. The prints are then torn into the required squares and
reassembled. The second method is to use production rechnology and make
a box template with 6 faces and images. this is printed then simply
folded into use as commercially produced boxes are made. This means
pulling one print per box and less construction time. How you would
marry this into the use of disparate materials I am not sure, you would
have a better idea than I. 

You have multiple identical units and a set of monolithic though of
human proportions measurements. What are your four images and how does
this relate to the intent of the installation? What is the specific
function of print media in this work?

I'm glad you wrote in, dont feel that that you might not fit in here,
you and your ideas are most welcome.

Josephine
Sydney, Australia
http://www.acay.com.au/~severn

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From: Krista Harberson <kristah@mb.ginet.or.jp>
Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2000 21:06:10 +0900
Subject: [Baren 9386] Re: me, ephemera &stuff. 

matthew,
from one self proclaimed materials junkie to another, welcome.

i read through your note, what i'm getting from this is that you're
looking for suggestions on what anti archival materials work best in
terms of printmaking constructions. are you only interested in working
with woodcuts? i've done two installations using silk-screened images on
tar paper. it works really well using oil based ink in terms of the ink
"grabbing" the paper surface. however, if you're interested in the work
morphing prior to and during the exhibition you might consider using
water based inks in that eventually the surface will repel the water
(that's why they used it for roofing). i'm not sure how well this
concept would work using woodcuts, the paper itself is cheap (like $8
for a huge roll), can be scored to fold more easily and is a wonderful
brown inky black when saturated with mineral spirits or turp.

just some thoughts, hope they help.

krista harberson

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End of Baren Digest V11 #980
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