Baren Digest             Saturday, 14 October 2000     Volume 13 : Number 1179


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From: amoss@mindspring.com (John Amoss)
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 10:02:30 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Baren 11697] Belfast show 

Sylvia  wrote:

>Oh, I am thinking of facilitating a Baren exhibition here.... Before I commit
I'd just like to get a sense of the level of interest from you all. I think
that the 'usual' amount we've s[p]ent for frames (US$25) would be necessary.
So, what do you think?

Sounds great to me!

Would this be the 'humor' exchange?
If so, I think that it would be a real crowd-pleaser.

What coverage! Manhattan, Chicago (Skokie), Uganda, Australia, Israel
(soon), now Belfast... am I forgetting any others?

I wonder if it would be worth sending Julio's frames to you (and eventually
back)? It might be cheaper... maybe not...

- -John A.



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From: "Jean Eger" <jeaneger@LanMinds.Com>
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 07:54:44 -0700
Subject: [Baren 11698] Re:   Baren Digest V13 #1178 charset="iso-8859-1" 

Dear Ruth Leaf,

Since we are straying from the woodblock field, slightly, I was wondering
how you would set up an etching studio at home.  What are some safety
precautions you would take with the nitric acid?  Is it enough to cover the
tray while etching in the kitchen and then carefully pour the acid solution
back into the bottle when done?  Do I need a fan?  Should I be etching
outside?  Should I build a box with a window, like Arthur Geisert describes
in the children's book,  THE ETCHER'S STUDIO.  New York.  Houghton Mifflin
Company Boston, 1997?

I do use a breathing mask. Also, I have some spent acid into which I poured
a lot of baking soda to neutralize, but I didn't pour it down the drain,
like the teaching assistant told me she did at San Francisco State.  First I
called Chevron across the street.  They told me the solution would still be
caustic, so I didn't do it.  Now I realize that I didn't need to do that at
all.  I just keep adding new acid to the solution as it wears out.  I buy
the acid at Bryant Chemical in Berkeley.

Jean Eger Womack
http://users.lanminds.com/~jeaneger


------------------------------

From: "Bea Gold" <bnj50@earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 08:38:46 -0700
Subject: [Baren 11699] Re: Baren Digest V13 #1175 charset="iso-8859-1" 

Hi Sylvia, Long term memory is not bad but can't remember where I put the
portable telephone last.  I loved what you were doing and remembered you
were coming for a stay in NYC.  How was that?   I support your Belfast
exhibit if it comes off.  Let us know how much.
.Karen your work looks terrific. I'd love to see the real thing.
I have been working on my comedy print using the Chinese method and loving
it.  I'm almost finished writing it up.  Thank you Ray Hudson!
Bea Gold
2206 Micheltorena Street
Los Angeles, CA 90039
(323) 660-0106
bnj50@earthlink.net
http//www.beagold.com/

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From: "Tyrus Clutter" <TRClutter@NNU.Edu>
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 09:37:01 -0600
Subject: [Baren 11700] Re:   Baren Digest V13 #1178 

You may want to try using ferric chloride instead of nitric acid. Keith =
Howard's "Non-Toxic Intaglio Printmaking" explains a lot about that =
method. The problems with ferric is that the solution needs to be =
aggitated so that particles will fall out of etched areas. You can also =
bite the plate uside down, but then you can't see the progress of the =
etching. You will hear pros and cons on Howard's methods, but there are =
definitely some things you may wish to think about to make the situation =
safer.
Nitric always corrodes things. No matter how well covered you keep it. I =
routinely have to clean the presses in our print studio and give them a =
slight application of oil to keep the rust at bay. I would want an exhast =
fan, at least, and a fume hood would be best for you. Of course, you could =
do this outside and still wear the mask.
My chemistry colleagues have said that it is ok to dump the nitric =
solution down the drain after the baking soda is fully dissolved. It =
should be neutral at that point.

><~><~><~><~><~><~><~><~><~><
Prof. Tyrus Clutter


>>> jeaneger@LanMinds.Com 10/13/00 08:54AM >>>
[Baren]: The mailing list / discussion forum for woodblock printmaking.

Dear Ruth Leaf,

Since we are straying from the woodblock field, slightly, I was wondering
how you would set up an etching studio at home.  What are some safety
precautions you would take with the nitric acid?  Is it enough to cover =
the
tray while etching in the kitchen and then carefully pour the acid =
solution
back into the bottle when done?  Do I need a fan?  Should I be etching
outside?  Should I build a box with a window, like Arthur Geisert =
describes
in the children's book,  THE ETCHER'S STUDIO.  New York.  Houghton Mifflin
Company Boston, 1997?

I do use a breathing mask. Also, I have some spent acid into which I =
poured
a lot of baking soda to neutralize, but I didn't pour it down the drain,
like the teaching assistant told me she did at San Francisco State.  First =
I
called Chevron across the street.  They told me the solution would still =
be
caustic, so I didn't do it.  Now I realize that I didn't need to do that =
at
all.  I just keep adding new acid to the solution as it wears out.  I buy
the acid at Bryant Chemical in Berkeley.

Jean Eger Womack
http://users.lanminds.com/~jeaneger=20



------------------------------

From: B Mason <bemason@concentric.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 08:56:42 -0700
Subject: [Baren 11701] ravens 

Sylvia,
I loved your portrait. You sure have a nice feel with those pieces, very
loose, almost painterly. Nice work. Count me in for the exhibition!
Barbara

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From: LEAFRUTH@aol.com
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 12:27:37 EDT
Subject: [Baren 11702] Re: Baren Digest V13 #1178 

Karen I finally got to see your web page.  I love your imagery.  What a fun 
medium.  Ruth

http://www.ruthleaf.com

------------------------------

From: "Jeanne Norman Chase" <studiojnc@prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 13:01:47 -0400
Subject: [Baren 11703] Re:   Baren Digest V13 #1178 charset="iso-8859-1" 

Dear Jean

Ruth has a wonderful book out which explains all of the questions that you
have asked,
It is Etching Engraving and Other Intaglio Techniques, put out by Dover
books, My local Barnes Noble carries the book and it is listed in the Daniel
Smith catalog.

Hope this helps.

Jeanne N.


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From: Julio.Rodriguez@walgreens.com
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 11:54:24 -0500
Subject: [Baren 11704] Re: Belfast show 

Great idea Sylvia, let us know what we can do to help from this end.

Julio



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From: Daniel Dew <ddew@tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 13:07:45 -0400
Subject: [Baren 11705] Snakey Exchangessssssssssssss 

Couple questions from the newbie:
- - Did you send the card in an envelope or sans envelope?
- - Did you print like massive quantities (50,75,100)?
_ Did most of ya'll use oil based or water based inks?

thanks, need help planning.

dan dew


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From: "Maria Arango" <maria@mariarango.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 10:23:46 -0700
Subject: [Baren 11706] Re: Snakey Exchangessssssssssssss charset="iso-8859-1" 

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Daniel Dew" <ddew@tampabay.rr.com>

> Couple questions from the newbie:
> - Did you send the card in an envelope or sans envelope?
> - Did you print like massive quantities (50,75,100)?
> _ Did most of ya'll use oil based or water based inks?

Can only speak for myself:
- -I sent a self-sealing folded card with the golden seal of Queen Mariah by
Pony Express, of course, it's all we got out'ere. I'm still trying to figure
out how to disguise my snakes so that they don't spook the horses.
- -100 little dragons left my lair for faraway lands.
- -My dragons, as my snakes, are slithery oily creatures, only way to print on
black paper.
ssssssssssssssssssssssss

<><><><><><><><><><><><>
Maria Arango, Printmaker
Las Vegas  Nevada  USA
http://www.1000woodcuts.com
maria@mariarango.com
<><><><><><><><><><><><>


------------------------------

From: Daniel Dew <ddew@tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 13:34:02 -0400
Subject: [Baren 11707] Chop marks 

I have always wanted to include a "chop" mark in my prints, do they usually
go outside of the printed area or inside the printed area or both and or
neither?

dan dew


------------------------------

From: Wanda <robertson@canby.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 10:50:16 -0700
Subject: [Baren 11708] Re: Snakey Exchangessssssssssssss 

Daniel Dew wrote:
> 
> Couple questions from the newbie:
> - Did you send the card in an envelope or sans envelope?

Some sent sans envelope, most sent in an envelope (some envelopes were
wonderfully co-ordinated with the image).

> - Did you print like massive quantities (50,75,100)?

I tried to print close to the amount needed - 40 or so as I recall.

> _ Did most of ya'll use oil based or water based inks?

I think the majority were oil - but *all* kinds, water-base, oil, color,
b&w, even a digital print. Which I found quite delightful, by the way.

> 
> thanks, need help planning.

Good luck planning!
> 
> dan dew

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From: Wanda <robertson@canby.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 10:53:58 -0700
Subject: [Baren 11709] Re: Exhibit in Belfast 

Hi Sylvie, I also remembered your "birth quilt" as the others were
discussing Karen's beautiful pieces! It is so great to be able to see
other's work 1/2 way around (or even all the way around) the world!

I would be thrilled to participate in an exhibit in Belfast, as I'm sure
many others would also. 

Wanda

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From: Jim Bryant <Jim.Bryant@enmu.edu>
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 12:13:04 -0600
Subject: [Baren 11710] Re: Chop marks 

Are you referring to a western printer's chop (an embossed logo 
image) or an eastern printer's chop (red ink design)?

The western version is usually outside the image, unless the image 
bleeds off the page, then it must go over the image. Often the 
printer is lower left and the publisher is lower right. although i 
have seen many variations on the theme.

don't know about the eastern version of a chop mark.

jim-

>I have always wanted to include a "chop" mark in my prints, do they usually
>go outside of the printed area or inside the printed area or both and or
>neither?
>
>
>dan dew


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From: Daniel Dew <ddew@tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 14:21:13 -0400
Subject: [Baren 11711] Re: Chop marks 

Oooops , red ink design or eastern version.

dan dew




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From: Julio.Rodriguez@walgreens.com
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 13:27:41 -0500
Subject: [Baren 11712] Re: Snakey Exchangessssssssssssss 

Hi Dan, yes, most came in safely inside envelopes, a few came bare, showing all.
A few were oversize which
made them hard to store with the others and to fit for the Skokie display. My
only suggestion is that to stay away
from a reduction print unless you want to print a large bunch of extras. I think
a few people were caught short
last year when more people signed up near the end and they were all out of their
reduction prints. Hopefully
everyone understands that you should send to everyone on the list. The
alternative is to wait till after the list is closed
do your edition.

By the way Colleen Corradi.......I did send you a dragon print last year to
Montesilvano, give me your new address and
I will send you another....I have extras here....no problem....

It was truly wonderful to come home after a day at the office to find a few new
little friends waiting for you in the mail.

Julio



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From: "Jeanne Norman Chase" <studiojnc@prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 16:25:08 -0400
Subject: [Baren 11713] Re: Snakey Exchangessssssssssssss charset="iso-8859-1" 

Snakes

It is not unusual to find a little snakey critter a'swimming with me when I
take my morning dip in the pool. Usually they are trying to find an escape
hatch. I will just have to sneak a few of those darlins' in a few envelopes
for the snake exchange, won't bite, just slither.

Dan, Usually they will come in an envelope, would not want the mail man to
start climbing the walls!

I would wait until the list comes out and then do the printing, but get the
print carved. Never know how many will sign up.

Should be interesting exchange.

Poor Dave, look what you have started, all kinds of shenanigans from your
flock!!!!

Jeanne N.


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From: Legreenart@cs.com
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 17:48:03 EDT
Subject: [Baren 11714] Re: Dragon Debts 

Dear Dragonmasters, 
    I am litterally digging through feet of medical bills and insurance forms 
to catch up with the rest of my life. I hope the effrts start to show soon. 
    Anyway, I need the person who told me I owe them a dragon print to speak 
up again, as well as anyone who didn't speak up before. 
    (I think I'll go back and count which ones i got, too, and see if any 
escaped!)
Thanks, 
Le Green

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From: Legreenart@cs.com
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 19:15:27 EDT
Subject: [Baren 11715] Re: Karen B, Baren Digest V13 #1177 

Dear Karen, 
    I haven't been able to access your site yet, my browser keeps complaining 
about errors that I belive are all in its imagination.
Would like to say "Beware the Basics!"  make long lasting pieces. Check out 
the permancy ratings. As student grade acrylics they may be made with some 
loser grade pigments which may not last.
    Most of the water base inks manufacturers make retarders, (so do acrylic 
paint companies) so that you could use other, high quality inks.
Le Green

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From: Graham Scholes <gscholes@home.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 16:48:32 -0700
Subject: [Baren 11716] Re: Chop marks 

>Oooops , red ink design or eastern version.

The red Asian chop usually goes on the print within the design.
I have seen it on the margin on occasions.
So it much be a printers choice.

Graham




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From: d bartl <dob38@yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 18:14:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Baren 11717] Re: Baren Digest V13 #1175 

HI,

I would love to participate in such a show.  I do
white-line printmaking.  Please keep me updated as to
the logistics of this show and anything I could do to
help.
Sincerely,
Deborah Bartl
- --- SylTaylor@aol.com wrote:


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From: Vollmer/Yamaguchi <jy6@columbia.edu>
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 22:53:53 -0400
Subject: [Baren 11718] Leonard Lee and Michael Wilcox 

Eli, I foiund a copy of the Complete Guide to Sharpening by Leonard Lee,
and it is great. More information than I'll ever use, but great sections on
the physics of cutting, on the structure and composition of wood, metal and
water stones. Also discusses the differences between western and Japanese
tools.

Very interesting (to the obesessed, anyway!)

As for color, I would recommend The Artist'sGuide to Slecting Colors,
Michael Wilcox, Colour School Publications, London 1997. It has great
descriptions of pigment, its characteristics including lightfastness,
transparency, and hue variations. I like it because it tells about what is
physically available as pigment, not just a theoretical approach. I am sure
it would be helpful in selecting a useful palette.

April Vollmer
174 Eldridge St, NYC 10002, 212-677-5691
http://www.aprilvollmer.com



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From: "eli griggs" <eli.griggs@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 00:01:17 -0400
Subject: [Baren 11719] Re: Leonard Lee and Michael Wilcox charset="iso-8859-1" 

Hi there:

    April,  thanks for pointing me toward Michael Wilcox  'The Artist's
Guide to Selecting Colours'.  With so many companies willing to use
proprietary names for their colours instead of honest labelling correctly
naming pigments, it is sometimes difficult to decide what is a fugitive
colour or mix and what is not.



Eli Griggs
Charlotte N.C.
USA


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End of Baren Digest V13 #1179
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