Baren Digest             Saturday, 25 November 2000     Volume 13 : Number 1225


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From: B Mason <bemason@concentric.net>
Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2000 07:53:33 -0800
Subject: [Baren 12236] Dampening paper 

A trick we learned at boot camp that helped quite a bit with the
dampening of paper was to but a damp blotter, just slightly larger than
the paper, on either side of the paper stack inside the plastic bag. We
did not use any weights, but let the paper stand several hours and I
usually have the best results if it is left over night. If the paper is
too wet when you take it out of the paper pack, lay it out around the
room for half an hour or so, then repackage it in the plastic and
blotters. I have made damp packs of paper for years and found the
blotter was a great help, so well worth the trip to BC for this little
bit of information! And you guys are getting it free!!!!

For oil based ink, you can put the paper in a water bath, if it is
strong enough. Then blot it on bath towels before you print. Towels work
great, as you can wash them if they get dirty and hang them to dry when
too wet. You can also put the print back into the water if you need to,
however I usually lay a piece of mylar over the top of it and a board,
layering print and mylar. This keeps the paper exactly the same dampness
for multiple printings and keeps it from offsetting onto any other
prints or papers. Be careful with waterleaf paper, if you get it too
wet, it will fall apaprt in you hands. A gentle mist in the air, then
pull the paper through it. This is about all it can take.

Another tip, if you offset your paper just a bit in the damp paper pack
it will be a lot easier to get one sheet apaprt from the rest, no
fighting the edges to find if you have one sheet or two. If you are
printing on damp paper for the first time, you will be surprised how it
pulls the ink from the block, all the fibers are so open from the
dampness it just allows the ink, both water and oil based to leap into
the paper and it will not usually come off for any reason. Only if there
is too much ink and the paper can't absorb it all, then it will lay on
top of the paper and offset to the next paper on top of it. You usually
do not need mylar with waterbased inks and hanga printing, the ink
really goes into the paper and you can just stack them up, offsetting
them a bit. If you notice any offsetting when proofing, use the mylar
for your edition.
Barbara





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From: barebonesart <barebonesart@home.com>
Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2000 11:33:14 -0800
Subject: [Baren 12237] Re: Baren Digest V13 #1224 

>It is interesting the use of words in different regions and countries.
>The use of the word "Amateur" here, has a negative connotation, and
>you seldom if ever hear it or see it written when describing a group.
>The term that is more politically correct is "Leisure Time".
>Use "Amateur" and you will get drummed out of town.

Graham

Yes, Graham, isn't it funny the negative connotation we Westerner's give
such a beautiful word as "Amateur" when it means someone who does something
purely for the love of the activity?

Sharri LaPierre  






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From: "Maria Arango" <maria@mariarango.com>
Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2000 17:50:28 -0800
Subject: [Baren 12238] WEN charset="iso-8859-1" 

Rejoice you "amateurs" of the tiny line and hard woods, the Wood Engraver's
Network now has their own list server through EGroups.
Just go http://www.egroups.com and search for Wood Engraver's Network, oh
heck I'll do it for ya--PAUSE--
whew, I've got to bookmark that puppy.........
here you go: http://www.egroups.com/group/Wood-Engravers-Network

Maria

PS  I'm sending a genuine hand-printed original unlimited edition-where was
I?-ho, yessss, woodcut print in a Christmasy fashion to anyone from Baren
that sends me their address

PPS   I got a print in the Parkside National Small Print Exhibition this
year, ya-hoo-le-le

<><><><><><><><><><><><>
Maria Arango, Printmaker
Las Vegas  Nevada  USA
http://www.1000woodcuts.com
maria@mariarango.com
<><><><><><><><><><><><>




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From: David Bull <davebull@woodblock.com>
Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2000 12:43:17 +0900
Subject: [Baren 12239] Re: WEN list server ... 

Maria wrote:
> Rejoice you "amateurs" of the tiny line and hard woods, the Wood Engraver's
> Network now has their own list server through EGroups.

> http://www.egroups.com/group/Wood-Engravers-Network

At last! Congratulations to the WEN on getting a forum set up. I've felt
for years that there should be a 'sister' group to [Baren], and am happy
to see it getting started. I was joking with somebody a while back that
they should call it: [Burin] the forum for wood engraving ...

[Baren] and [Burin] ... only thing that separates them is a couple of
vowels, and a bit of a different 'perspective' on how to slice up a 
tree ...   :-)

Dave


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From: Graham Scholes <gscholes@home.com>
Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2000 21:29:22 -0800
Subject: [Baren 12240] Opening 

The exhibition opens
Saturday Nov 25th and 26th  10am to 5pm

http://members.home.net/gscholes/studio.exhibit.html


Graham/Victoria BC
An Island in the Pacific
Home of the Boot Camp




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From: "John and Michelle Morrell" <jmmorrell@gci.net>
Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2000 23:20:00 -0900
Subject: [Baren 12241] Baren 1224, Margins, Ban Ban Exhbit, Stretching paper charset="iso-8859-1" 

Thank you Sarah and Barabar for your comments.  I will try to tear the snake
print margins down to about 1/4 inch and see how it goes.

The Ban Ban exhibit is so fresh and exciting it makes me ache to look at
their work.

Carolyn asked about hand coloring prints.  I had a friend who used to do it
with colored pencil.  As with most things done well with colored pencil, it
is very tedious.  You could also try water color pencil.  I have used
watercolors occasionally without having to tape down the print.  But if you
are going to put a lot of water or wash on the paper, you'd do well to tape
it to your formica or plexiglas or whatever you use for a drawing board with
surgical tape, or strapping tape if you don't have the surgical tape, which
is more expensive but can be reused many times.  Some people use masking
tape, but it tends to tear paper if it is on for any period of time.

A trick that works with warped prints as well as warped water color papers
is to tape your print face down on your formica or plexiglass or whatever,
mist it thoroughly, then blast it with a hairdryer while very gently
smoothing out the back of it with a (clean) gloved hand.  The glove is to
protect your hand from the unpleasant heat.  I have done this a lot with
heavy weight papers, but just recently used it with medium weight Daphne,
which had turned into shriveled autumn leaves drying on my clothes line
after printing.  I had dunked every 4th paper, left the papers for 24 hours
in a zip lock bag under a stack of books, then printed them.  I  had then
tried misting them and stacking them with interleaving under large, heavy
books after the ink had dried, but the prints came out looking like prune
skins the next day.  The hairdryer method flattened them right out, though,
in very little time.

<^><^><^><^><^><^>
    Michelle Morrell
   jmmorrell@gci.net
<^><^><^><^><^><^>





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End of Baren Digest V13 #1225
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