Baren Digest             Tuesday, 20 February 2001     Volume 14 : Number 1326


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From: "Jeanne Norman Chase" <studiojnc@prodigy.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 10:49:06 -0500
Subject: [Baren 13471] Mildew charset="iso-8859-1" 

Does anyone have a solution to the problem in advance, to stave off mildew
on your rag paper? I have been having this problem of late. Embarrassed by
hanging 3 pieces in a show and when attending the opening, under very bright
lights noticed one piece very badly mildewed. I did not notice this in my
studio.
I live in Florida with lots of heat and humidity. Is there any way to head
off this plague?  I have all of my ceiling fans going and try to keep the AC
on in hot weather. But the mildew is winning!!!
Would welcome any suggestions.

Jeanne N.



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From: John and Jan Telfer <jtelfer@iinet.net.au>
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 01 00:37:58 -0000
Subject: [Baren 13473] Re:Australian Native Woods 

Mellissa,

>Can any Aussies out there suggest any native woods?
>
>Mellissa Read-Devine
>depicture@excite.com
I have recently been in contact with a supplier of cut wood in Perth (at 
the Wood Show and a group of wood carvers) and he is getting me some 
samples to try in particular some of the fruit woods, but I have yet to 
collect them.  One gentleman was going to select a few he thought may be 
of interest and carving quality. I took a piece of my Japanese wild 
cherry with me specifically to ask. I will let you know.

I use the Japanese Cherry wood Dave talks about.  I have a 
friend/woodblock teacher who sends me a stack of plywood blocks in 
exchange for $100Aus!!

Where in Australia are you?  There are other Bareners in NSW.
Melbourne Etching supplies do have some woodblocks.

Jan
(Perth, Western Australia)

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From: John and Jan Telfer <jtelfer@iinet.net.au>
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 01 00:38:01 -0000
Subject: [Baren 13474] Re: fine cuts 

Carolyn,

> like the circles so that
>they wouldn't fill in with ink...so I've got a piece in progress that I
>woodburned in some areas. 

Carloyn, go to your local craft supply store and buy a range of leather 
punch tools of different diameters that will give you circles.  Two 
punches of different sizes will give you "hoop" type circles, but 
cut/punch the outside one first. You don't need to use a lot of ink.

Hope this helps.
Jan
(Perth Aust)



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From: "Charles and Gail Sheffield" <gsheffield@i-55.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 11:05:09 -0800
Subject: [Baren 13475] Re: Mildew charset="iso-8859-1" 

Watercolor artists have the same problem, at least here in the South.
Somebody will probably tell you to spray it with Lysol.  Several years ago,
I wrote to the Lysol people and asked about it.  They said it would kill the
active mildew, but has no residual effect after it dries.  They had no
opinion as to whether it had any long term effects on the paper.

Gail Sheffield
Covington, LA

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From: "eli griggs" <eli.griggs@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 13:23:48 -0500
Subject: [Baren 13477] gelatin charset="iso-8859-1" 

Hi there:

I want to size some Kitakata paper and I don't want to run out and buy a
large bag of rabbit or hide glue at the moment.  I do have small packets of
Knox unflavoured/unsweetened gelatine.  Since I know I can use this as a
high quality hide glue for woodworking, I am asking for advice on mixing it
for size.

All suggestions welcomed.

Eli Griggs
Charlotte N.C.
USA





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From: James G Mundie <jimandkatemundie@juno.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 13:27:22 -0500
Subject: [Baren 13478] correcting warped boards 

To those of you with slightly warped blocks, there are a few tricks you
might try to "de-warp" a board -- at least temporarily.

The plank boards most likely to warp are those in which the plank was cut
from close to the center of the tree from which it came.  In other words,
a board that clearly and dramatically displays the arching ring pattern
at the end of the plank will be prone to the greatest degree of warp. 
Generally, this sort of board also displays the greatest degree of
difference between hard and soft wood in the grain. This type of plank
tends to bow down the length of its center, cupping in the direction of
the ring pattern.  

Two methods may help correct warping:  

1) lay the board cupped-side down on a moist surface for a time (a patch
of grass on a sunny day is ideal) until the humidity corrects the warp; 

2) carve out a bit of wood on back side of the block the release some of
the tension in the grain (i.e., remove wood from convex side of the
warp).

Of course, with long planks one also has to deal with a certain amount of
twist from side to side.  This may be avoided by cutting the board into
shorter lengths, and/or employing the use of braces at the end of the
board as described in the [Baren] Encyclopedia.

Regards,
James Mundie, Philadelphia USA
http://www.missioncreep.com/mundie/index.htm  

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From: Aqua4tis@aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 14:13:28 EST
Subject: [Baren 13479] Re: Printing on Tyvec ... 

<< http://woodblock.com/encyclopedia/entries/017_06/017_06.html >>

dave
   these prints are wonderful!   i hadnt seen them before   do you know if 
#02 and #06 were done by the same artist?   and what exactly is tyvec?   self 
help graphics had some artists from mexico come and visit and they were doing 
etching on masonite because they couldnt get zinc plates       its wonderful 
to see how inventive humans can be when necessary    personally i like the 
idea of using what is available and learning to make it work
georga

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From: Steve Goddard <goddard@ku.edu>
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 14:24:39 -0600
Subject: [Baren 13481] Re: Printing on Tyvec ... 

>etching on masonite because they couldnt get zinc plates       its wonderful
>to see how inventive humans can be when necessary    personally i like the
>idea of using what is available and learning to make it work
>georga

Right, I think there is a theory that Erich Heckel used wrapping paper 
(maybe for wrapping medical supplies) for some of his wartime prints when 
paper was scarce. I think Siqueros also printed on whatever he could find 
when he was making woodcuts while in jail. And there are the found blocks 
as well (Jarry, Weber...)

Steve


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From: Ray Hudson <rhudson@together.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 15:34:18 -0500
Subject: [Baren 13482] Re: Exchange #8 

In response to Dan's question about Exchange 8, I'm awaiting the arrival of 8
more prints and the cases and will then ship the wonderful collection off to
the participants.  Dan has graciously offered to scan the prints into the
Baren website.   Thanks to everyone for their help on this exchange.  It's
been terrific having the prints arrive at my doorstep.   More as we get
closer.
Ray

>


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From: barebonesart <barebonesart@home.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 13:08:01 -0800
Subject: [Baren 13483] Re: Baren Digest v14 #1324 

I've never tried wood burning for little round holes, but a punch works very
well, the kind carpenters use to mark where a nail or screw goes? I just
cajunka-cajunka all over the wood to get a texture, and have also done this
on metal plates - it works for both.

I've never heard of anyone using house paint for block printing, and would
think it would dry awfully fast and tend to scum. There would not appear to
be any way to get translucent colors or to allow for layering one color over
another to get a third one.  Plain old pan watercolors & rice paste would
work better, I think, or the waterbased inks from Graphic Chem, or Green
Drop. They will both ship anyplace.

Sharri



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From: Julio.Rodriguez@walgreens.com
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 16:46:08 -0600
Subject: [Baren 13484] Re: round holes, Graphic Chemical 02/19/2001 04:46:04 PM 

If you make little round holes on your block your are going to get  little
"white" dots on your print. If you want to make color ones and want a
shortcut, try using wood dowels. Most home-improvement stores carry a wide
selection of long wooden dowel stock anywhere from 1/16" all the way to 1"
or wider in diameter.  Use a same size drill bit to make a hole in your
block to receive a small length of the dowel. Glue the small dowel piece
into the hole and sand to same height as the rest of your un-carved block.
All the colored round shapes found on "Feeding Time" were made this way
with as many as eight different
sizes.

http://barenforum.org/members/rodriguez/exchange_7.jpg

Dean, thank you so very much for the wonderful tour of Graphic Chemical &
Ink. Looking forward to trying the new inks tonight.
Will keep you posted. It is godsent to printmakers that in this day and age
we can still rely on your company to provide the quality, experience and
friendly customer service so much missed in other venues.

thanks...Julio


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From: "Charles and Gail Sheffield" <gsheffield@i-55.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 17:31:52 -0800
Subject: [none]


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From: b.patera@att.net
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 23:47:09 +0000
Subject: [Baren 13486] Re: your mail... handcoloring 

Hi Gail,

I'm a beginner myself so don't know if purists would 
frown on handcoloring of prints. However, I've done 
it... works great...especially if you are using one of 
the thin rice type papers and put the paint on the 
back.My motto( at least in printing) is that if it works 
it's good.

B. patera

> Another beginner's question--sorry, all you purists, this will make you gag for 
> sure.  Does anyone hand color black and white prints?  With watercolor?  
> 
> Gail Sheffield
> Covington, LA, USA
> 

------------------------------

From: Artsmadis@aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 18:48:51 EST
Subject: [Baren 13487] Re: gelatin 

In a message dated 2/19/01 12:29:24 PM Central Standard Time, 
eli.griggs@worldnet.att.net writes:

<< I want to size some Kitakata paper and I don't want to run out and buy a
 large bag of rabbit or hide glue at the moment.  I do have small packets of
 Knox unflavoured/unsweetened gelatine.  Since I know I can use this as a
 high quality hide glue for woodworking, I am asking for advice on mixing it
 for size. >>

Kurt Wehlte [ The Materials and Techniques of Painting ] says use a weak size 
for paper of 50 parts dry glue or gelatine and 1000 parts water.  Also 
advises the addition of 10% alum.  The alum hardens the gelatine.

Darrell

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From: "Walters, Stephanie J. (Nevada Color)" <SJWalters@nevadacolor.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 17:50:04 -0600
Subject: [Baren 13488] RE:  charset="iso-8859-1" 

Yes, I have on occasion.  I personally think it is okay, as long as you
still do the editions and remain true to the concept of an edition.  It is
so much fun to handcolor woodblock prints.  I could see how an accomplished
multicolor woodblock printer would scoff, but I personally like the look of
solid black outlines filled in with the multitude of color you can achieve
from watercolor.  Maybe I am just not experienced enough to know, but I have
never seen the look achieved using multiple blocks or reduction.  


>Another beginner's question--sorry, all you purists, this will make you gag
>for sure.  Does anyone hand color black and white prints?  With watercolor?

 
Gail Sheffield
Covington, LA, USA


------------------------------

From: B E Mason <bemason@concentric.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 15:50:01 -0800
Subject: [Baren 13489] Hand coloring 

Gail, yes they do. Artists have been coloring oil based prints with 
watercolor and pencils for a long time. It is tedious. Easier to make 
another plate.
Barbara

> Another beginner's question--sorry, all you purists, this will make 
> you gag for sure.  Does anyone hand color black and white prints?  
> With watercolor? 



------------------------------

From: "Bea Gold" <bnj50@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 16:11:06 -0800
Subject: [Baren 13491] hand painted prints

Hi Gail, If you look at my site you will see several hand colored =
prints.  I am doing hanga and shui-yin (Chinese) woodblock prints and =
using color in this way.  The address is: http://beagold.com/ , Bea =
Gold, Los Angeles, CA, USA


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From: "Charles and Gail Sheffield" <gsheffield@i-55.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 18:30:08 -0800
Subject: [Baren 13492] Re: hand painted prints

Thank you, thank you, thank you.  I am a watercolor painter, and so will =
try it.  Doesn't sound as tedious as making the color block, =
registering, etc.  In fact, I still like to color in coloring books.  If =
the B&W print is from a wood block, will hand coloring be ok for print =
exchanges?

Bea, I looked at your website.  I guess that photo is you, sooo very =
elegant, you are!

Gail Sheffield
Covington, LA


------------------------------

From: "Bea Gold" <bnj50@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 16:38:38 -0800
Subject: [Baren 13493] Re: gelatin charset="iso-8859-1" 

Hi Eli, My recipe for sizing, which I got from Jean Eger-Womack , is 3/4t
alum, 1 package gel, 35 oz water - hot water, disolve gelatine, add alum -
cover both sides of the paper.  I use the small flat pads with a handle,
used for painting straight lines on walls, found in the section where paint
rollers are sold.  Cheap and very good for this purpose.  Bea Gold, Los
Angeles, CA, USA

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From: ArtfulCarol@aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 19:46:06 EST
Subject: [Baren 13494] Re: hand coloring 

Yes, there is someone who hand colors woodblocks and it isn't me!  .

I came across these handcolored woodblocks a while ago:

geocities.com/lecomtedominique/newprints.html
It was part of the Gallerie LD Gellery_New prints-Nouvelles Gravures

Carol Lyons   Irvington, NY
http://rst-art.com/artfulcarol

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End of Baren Digest v14 #1326
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