Baren Digest Thursday, 26 April 2001 Volume 15 : Number 1401 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: alan Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 22:25:56 -0700 Subject: [Baren 14246] hanshita transfer paper Jack wrote..... >I thought I was being clever, and Xeroxed up the whole set for all >my blocks. After I carved them all, I found that they wouldn't register >worth a damn. After a few experiments to see what went wrong, I found >that copy machines do not make the same sized copies, even if they are >all one right after the other out of the machine. They can vary by as >much as 1/8" in 10 inches! All copy machines are not made equal to make equal. If you test different makes you will find one that is accurate, be it two copies or 20 copies. I have had no problem in this matter and can rely upon the unit at the local copy shop for the small stuff and downtown I can rely upon a drum machine that will give me copies that are accurate to perfection for the very large line drawings. The largest to date is 32" x 24" Oh, I always mark one copy and designate as the master and chech each copy against it to make sure the machine did not screw up. I would hate to cut 8 or 10 blocks to find out the copies were not exact. Why you ask.... you only do what Jack and I did once and never ever ever ever have blind faith again. A ------------------------------ From: alan Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 22:26:47 -0700 Subject: [Baren 14247] Re: knives and bevels....a question Julio wrote..... >Not an expert on this stuff, so I have a question...the traditional >japanese cutting knife (To) has a bevel edge on one side...in my case being >left-handed and holding the knife on my left hand.... It works much better if you hold it "in" your left hand.... (<: (sorry couldn't resist. >what is the proper way to cut fine lines ? and >does it matter if you are cutting the inside or the outside of line ? It really depend on what side you are on.... (<: or more succinctly if you are on the inside you always cut outside ... (unless of coarse it is raining then it is best to have a umbrella.) The line you cut must be beveled in relationship to the relief printing surface. The bevel cut affords support therefore the edge of the relief will not break down with repeated burnishings and pressure of printing ... and we all know about the pressure of printing. >Do the experts rotate the block around to always have the same side of the >blade edge cutting agains the line ? Almost all do rotate the block to achieve the bevel cut on the outside. I have known people that walk around the other side of the table to make the cut. It becomes a personal choice and also the space that you have for your carving bench ..... hori dai.... or from the other side dai hori ... (<: >Are there >left handed and right handed To's ??? Yep .... just as there are left and right handed people's. >Inquiring minds wants to know ! Wise guy gots the answer.... A ------------------------------ From: alan Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 22:52:23 -0700 Subject: [Baren 14248] Ugh hanshita transfer paper Barbara wrote..... >Wanda has used the sumi paper for this and it works very well, you >glue it down with rice paste and then just cut through it. I does >not seem to change shape at all, which is the main thing you want in >a transfer paper. If it distorts when you get it wet with paste you >are in trouble. Oh ya big big trouble if distortion happens. I have tried this once and it was the last time. The problems is that after cutting a key line plate and taking a impression off of it on very thin paper it was hard as all get out to lay down (paste) this key line print without getting distortion. No matter how hard tried I would get a wrinkle or it stretched slightly in the wrong direction. Its not bad for small work but get into a man size print... sorry girls... and the problem gets to be expediential in nature. Also if you use a paper that is not a fordineer (sp?) sheet (known as cylinder sheet) then the paper will expand in one direction more than the other when damp and this will not correspond with the original key line plate.... Oh ya big big troubles.... If you use a quality hosho base paper then the results are easier to achieve ... however show me the way to the toner copies on 10=A2 paper =2E... how sweet it is. A ------------------------------ From: alan Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 23:00:48 -0700 Subject: [Baren 14249] Re: hanshita transfer paper I looked in on this page and wondered if Dave is paying royalties when he uses images done by artisans form the past. The other thought is cultural appropriation. Over here it is an important issue and wonder if this present any problems in Japan ? Alan ------------------------------ From: baren_member@barenforum.org (Margaret M. Szvetecz) Date: 26 Apr 2001 06:49:30 -0000 Subject: [Baren 14250] RISD Message posted by: Margaret M. Szvetecz RISD is the Rhode Island School of Design--a prestigious art/design college. Their web site is: http://www.risd.edu/ Margaret M. Szvetecz szvetecz@alexia.lis.uiuc.edu ------------------------------ From: David Bull Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 15:38:10 +0900 Subject: [Baren 14251] Re: The Rev. Barry Moser John Amoss wrote: > ... impressions of wood > engraver Barry Moser Wonderful to read this John, thank you for sending it! Wonderful for two reasons ... one because it shows interesting aspects of an interesting man's character, and two because we are always gratified to hear about somebody whose prejudices match our own! :-) *** Jack Reisland wrote: > After a few experiments to see what went wrong, I found > that copy machines do not make the same sized copies, even if they are > all one right after the other out of the machine. They can vary by as > much as 1/8" in 10 inches! This could have been from the copy machine, but may I toss out some other thoughts on how the sheets could have varied? If you didn't paste them all down quite soon after preparing them, changes in the weather (humidity) could have caused them to change shape. Even modern 'copy paper' can expand quite dramatically with changes in the environment, and if you were to paste some of them down on a dry day, and others down on a wetter day, this could cause problems. > stuck down with acrylic > medium instead of rice paste Plain old white glue also works for this (it can be slightly thinned with water if it is too thick). The one I'm doing at the moment is a colour copy hanshita, and it would peel off easily because of the silicon stuff on the surface. Gluing it down avoids this problem, and yet white glue will easily come off when washed after the carving is finished. *** Julio wrote: > Usually I cut with the non-bevel edge against the line in a > downward motion towards me. This is the 'official' way ... although truth be told, the blades are so slender that it really doesn't make much difference for 'normal' work. When you get down to hair-fine thin, it does make a difference though; cutting with the bevel side against the wood will compress that wood slightly. It will then expand when moistened for printing, 'fattening' up the lines. > Do the experts rotate the block around to always have the same side > of the blade edge cutting agains the line ? In the 'good old days' the top men never rotated their blocks; they took great pride in keeping them in the same position on the desk. This made a _huge_ difference in the easiness of printing, but those days are now completely gone, and there is no man left alive who can do it that way ... > Are there left handed and right handed To's ??? Absolutely. I keep a selection of both in my kit, and switch from one to the other as needed (not with two hands, but using both with the left hand ...) *** Somebody wrote: > I looked in on this page and wondered if Dave is paying royalties > when he uses images done by artisans form the past. Sorry Graham, I won't 'bite' ... ... I'd rather keep my nose where it belongs ... Dave ------------------------------ From: GWohlken Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 08:14:01 -0400 Subject: [Baren 14252] Re: Baren Digest v15 #1400 John, thanks for telling us about Barry Moser. You said he told you what not to do in wood engraving. What would that be? Or is this the wrong forum for that. :-) Marilynn, you can show the grain if you wire-brush your board with one of those smaller wire brushes that look like a toothbrush. Gayle (Ohio) ------------------------------ End of Baren Digest v15 #1401 *****************************