Baren Digest             Saturday, 1 December 2001     Volume 17 : Number 1636


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "April Vollmer" <april@aprilvollmer.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 09:03:21 -0500
Subject: [Baren 16291] Brushing up 

David Stones, thanks for the info on brushes. I have wondered about how long
to soak. When I first started printing hanga, I was told (by Elaine? Bill
P?) to soak brushes before use. I think the idea was that the bristles would
expand by absorbing water so they didn't fall out. Guess this is not the
case?

In any event, the good horsehair brushes are tied in, so shouldn't fall out.

It is odd that of the other brushes I have (the handle ones, as opposed to
the shoe brush ones) some loose bristles and some are fine. I wonder if it
has to do with the change in humidity from the US to Japan?

Also, I REALLY need my hon baren recovered. I can sort of do it, but my
sheaths are mostly pretty dried up. True baren is absolutely the best, so I
am patching it with pieces of scotch tape! Maybe I should ask Sarah H. to
loan a hand, easier with four hands? Should I send it to Japan?

Tnx,

April
www.aprilvollmer.com

P.S. the eternal reminder: please set your e-mail program to UNFORMATTED
text, it makes posts much shorter!


------------------------------

From: Mike Lyon <mikelyon@mlyon.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 08:11:22 -0600
Subject: [Baren 16292] Re: Baren Digest V17 #1635 

>From: Cate-Earthlink <cate108@earthlink.net>
>Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 21:48:24 -0600
>Subject: [Baren 16286] Snake Exchange Addresses Please
>
>Would someone please make an honest woman of me and send me the list of
>people involved in the snake print exchange?  I e-mailed Pete but did not
>hear back from him.
>
>I suspect that I am going to be the last snake to slither through the mail.
>
>Thank you,
>
>Cate Pfeifer
>cate108@earthlink.net


Hey!  I always wondered what 'make an honest woman of me' meant, and now I 
know that it has something to do with 'slithering snakes' !!  Good to read 
your voice again, Cate !!  So how is it being the Publisher, Editor and 
chief bottle washer at the 'Tornado' news ??  By the way...  I hope yours 
is not the last snake to come slithering in (with its head between its 
tail?), 'cause there are several behind you, I believe.

Mike


------------------------------

From: Daniel Dew <ddew@tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 10:11:24 -0500
Subject: [Baren 16293] Some quickies 

#1.  I have felt guilty for awhile in not speaking up, so here goes: When I
originally asked Dave if I could become a member of Baren, even though I
worked in lino, he said it was O.K..  But, if I was to enter an exchange, it
MUST be with a WOODBLOCK print (which I have done so far).  I don't know if
that has changed or what, but I thought it wise to set the record straight.

#2. Last week someone mentioned being a lino person only.  So was I prior to
joining this group, now I don't think I've even touched a lino for a year or
more.  Once you begin to carve that beautiful wood, watching the grain and
the feel and the smell of real wood, well, I've never gone back to lino.
One of the beauties of working with wood is choosing a wood that will
compliment the design and technique.  I'm doing a print now of a tiger's
face, up close.  I used a fantastic piece of Poplar, allowing the grain to
help with the pattern of the fur by printing lightly, burnishing hard in
other areas, something I could never do in lino.

#3.  Nothing, just felt like I should have a number three to go along with
the other two.



Daniel L. Dew
http://www.dandew.com/
ddew@tampabay.rr.com



------------------------------

From: "David Stones" <stones@mb.i-chubu.ne.jp>
Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 01:21:57 +0900
Subject: [Baren 16294] Re: Baren covering 

Dear Maria (and All),

Glad to be of help with (one) brush method... the "problem of humidity" is
probably one of long storage too. I keep my new (Kyoto-made) brushes in the
fairly cool - but humid in summer - workshop... bagged and hanging from the
ceiling or in a drawer with the bristles not touching anything. The handled
brushes are wrapped and bound with wire (plus they are held together with
glue at the non-business end). You can "rebind" tighter if falling bristles
are a problem but, again, each to his/her own.

As for the "hon baren" you mentioned, there's some info on this in one of
the books in the [Baren] library (I'm lucky enough to have an actual
machine copy of the book). You can either go to Page 35 in "Japanese
Woodblock Printing by Hiroshi Yoshida" (1939) or the [Baren] website at

http://woodblock.com/encyclopedia/entries/011_07/chap_3b.html

and you'll get to the Baren-covering section. Not much help in actually
doing the work but it's there. On the diagram of how to cut the bamboo
sheath though, I'll add that I cut BOTH ends to the shapes shown.

Not quite sure what you meant by "but my sheaths are mostly pretty dried
up" as the "new" ones here are dried out in a coiled tube - that needs to
be dampened before use. Good luck anyway - this job is one you cannot teach
over the computer screen though - and, sending the baren to Japan will not
help, as we here also have only two hands(!)...

Dave S (Ishita)


------------------------------

From: "Diane Tigue" <dtigue@kscable.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 10:25:57 -0600
Subject: [Baren 16295] Re: Some quickies 

Hi daniel - I think it might have been me who has worked in lino only.  I am
learning a lot just being on the list and in the middle of a three color
woodblock plus black.  Still assembling new tools and pigments as i only
work in litho oil ink.  thanks for posting a clearing up the rules.  Diane
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Daniel Dew" <ddew@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <baren@ml.asahi-net.or.jp>
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2001 9:11 AM
Subject: [Baren 16293] Some quickies


> #1.  I have felt guilty for awhile in not speaking up, so here goes: When I
> originally asked Dave if I could become a member of Baren, even though I
> worked in lino, he said it was O.K..  But, if I was to enter an exchange,it
> MUST be with a WOODBLOCK print (which I have done so far).  I don't know if
> that has changed or what, but I thought it wise to set the record straight.

> #2. Last week someone mentioned being a lino person only.  So was I prior to
> joining this group, now I don't think I've even touched a lino for a year or
> more.  Once you begin to carve that beautiful wood, watching the grain and
> the feel and the smell of real wood, well, I've never gone back to lino.
> One of the beauties of working with wood is choosing a wood that will
> compliment the design and technique.  I'm doing a print now of a tiger's
> face, up close.  I used a fantastic piece of Poplar, allowing the grain to
> help with the pattern of the fur by printing lightly, burnishing hard in
> other areas, something I could never do in lino.

> #3.  Nothing, just felt like I should have a number three to go along with
> the other two.

> Daniel L. Dew
> http://www.dandew.com/
> ddew@tampabay.rr.com



------------------------------

From: "David Stones" <stones@mb.i-chubu.ne.jp>
Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 01:25:57 +0900
Subject: [Baren 16296] Re: Oops!  Baren covering 

Dear April (and All - sorry got the name wrong, been a long day),

Glad to be of help with (one) brush method... the "problem of humidity" is
probably one of long storage too. I keep my new (Kyoto-made) brushes in the
fairly cool - but humid in summer - workshop... bagged and hanging from the
ceiling or in a drawer with the bristles not touching anything. The handled
brushes are wrapped and bound with wire (plus they are held together with
glue at the non-business end). You can "rebind" tighter if falling bristles
are a problem but, again, each to his/her own.

As for the "hon baren" you mentioned, there's some info on this in one of
the books in the [Baren] library (I'm lucky enough to have an actual
machine copy of the book). You can either go to Page 35 in "Japanese
Woodblock Printing by Hiroshi Yoshida" (1939) or the [Baren] website at

http://woodblock.com/encyclopedia/entries/011_07/chap_3b.html

and you'll get to the Baren-covering section. Not much help in actually
doing the work but it's there. On the diagram of how to cut the bamboo
sheath though, I'll add that I cut BOTH ends to the shapes shown.

Not quite sure what you meant by "but my sheaths are mostly pretty dried
up" as the "new" ones here are dried out in a coiled tube - that needs to
be dampened before use. Good luck anyway - this job is one you cannot teach
over the computer screen though - and, sending the baren to Japan will not
help, as we here also have only two hands(!)...

Dave S (Ishita)



------------------------------

From: Wanda <robertson@canby.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 09:06:55 -0800
Subject: [Baren 16297] message from Foo Kwee Horng 

Seems to be a problem with e-mail today. Sorry, Foo Kwee!

subject: Chinese woodblock prints

message:

Thanks for the offer Julio. I will know who to seek help from
when I need to. Modern Chinese prints of the 1930s and 1940s are
certainly unique but most of what that has been written about the
topic is still in Chinese. Very little has been written in
English; do you think it is because the West has not been exposed
to those prints? However, the same cannot be said about the
Japanese prints as much has been written about them in English.
Have you done much research in the field of Chinese Modern prints
yourself?

------------------------------

From: Graham <gscholes@shaw.ca>
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 09:22:10 -0800
Subject: [Baren 16298] Re: Brushing up 

April wrote.....

>Also, I REALLY need my hon baren recovered. I can sort of do it, but my
>sheaths are mostly pretty dried up. True baren is absolutely the best, so I
>am patching it with pieces of scotch tape! Maybe I should ask Sarah H. to
>loan a hand, easier with four hands? Should I send it to Japan?


I think it is time to bite the bullet April and learn to tie the takenokawa onto the etegawa!
All it takes is practice and using up those old sheaths is a wonderful opportunity and they
make great practice thingies. Soak them for 15 to 20 minutes and away you go.

My site has step by step pictures of the procedure. 
http://members.home.net/woodblocks/tie-baren

Last year that I came up with the use of a clamp as a forth hand.  I offered to put this on my site 
but no one asked so did not bother, figuring nobody out there ties on takenokawas.  Which is not quite 
accurate as all the guys that have been to Boot Camp can't go to supper until they have tied a successful baren.  )o>:

John Root... the fellow that makes the almost perfect Barens here which are just about like the real think came up 
with a great suggestion at last years Boot Camp.   Instead of wasting good sheaths for practice, take a piece of light 
weight canvas or cloth that is about the same density as the bamboo and use this to practice... practice.... practice.... 
practice... practice.... practice.... practice.... practice.... practice.... practice.... practice.... practice.... practice.... practice.... 
practice.... practice.... practice.... (got the idea   (o<:)

If all of the above fails.... send it to me and I will tie one on.... $10.00us
This offer is only for April.  Sorry.
But you gotta supply the malt scotch.

Regards

Graham


------------------------------

From: Bobbi Chukran <bobbi.chukran@mindspring.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 13:28:21 -0500
Subject: [Baren 16299] Re: Some quickies 

Hi Daniel and all,

I've been remiss at not answering the welcome messages I got.  Had too much
holiday company and computer gremlins.


>#2. Last week someone mentioned being a lino person only.  So was I prior to
>joining this group, now I don't think I've even touched a lino for a year or
>more.>>


I think that was me.  I have tried several woodblock prints, using pine.
The problem is that I have carpal tunnel syndrome, tendinitis, and who
knows what else, and find the wood carving a bit too taxing on my poor
joints.  But I hope to be able to experiment with it more eventually...My
stuff is a little "experimental" anyway...sometimes my prints are combined
with collages--EEK!  LOL

I do appreciate all the information on the list, though, and have enjoyed
looking at your websites....

Bobbi C.
- -----------
http://www.BobbiChukran.com



------------------------------

From: "kent kirkpatrick" <kirk_star@hotmail.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 16:00:42 -0800
Subject: [Baren 16300] Re: Baren Digest V17 #1635 

Jan and All,

>Dear Kent, 
>
>Nice to hear from you and Graham of course with whom we have looooong 
>conversations! 
>You may recall that Jan (Boot Camp) was soaking her Hanga Bake 
> brushes ... these are the ones with the long handle and the hair is 
> bound with wire. According to Jan this is OKY DOKY as per her 
> teacher. 
>Well, I did quietly follow this up again with a number of my printmaking 
>connections and yes, that was what I was told. The copper wire tightens 
>around the swollen soaked duel or split wooden handles (half an hour at 
>least before printing). This grips the hairs more tightly and so are 
>less likely to come out and the waterbased paint is slurped up into the 
>bristles.....this is what we were also told to do before we used our 

The source I quoted may be in error as it lists Maru Bake, Hanga Bake, Surikomi Bake, 
Dosa Bake and Mizu Bake as all needing the moistening.   I believe it is the Maru Bake 
that I am most familiar with...
 
>Somerset Studio Magazine - Paper Arts - Art Stamping - Letter Arts 
>Gallery - Volume 11 (More than 800 Handcrafted Works of Art) 
>Published by Stampingon Company in America 
>Somerset Studio is in Laguna Hills, California. 

>Two years ago I sent in an article on woodblock printing with 6 or 7 of 
>my orginal 40 x 35 cm prints (twice magazine page size in inches!) and it 
>has finally been printed!!! 

>Jan 
>Downunder in sunny Western Australia. 

I echo the Grahammeister's thought, it couldn't have happened to a nicer person. Congrats Jan!!!
Kent Kirkpatrick 
Portland, OR U.S.A. (Upover in rainy Oregon)



------------------------------

From: Cucamongie@aol.com
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 20:04:05 EST
Subject: [Baren 16301] Jan 

Congratulations, Jan, anybody in the US know where we can get a hold of this magazine?  I'd love to see it.
Also, if someone scans some of these Chinese prints that have been discussed, please post to Baren where we can 
see them - unfortunately I missed the show at the Guggenheim!  I did see a fun show at the Guggenheim about a 
year ago, the motorcycle show :)woo hoo!  It was great to see the bikers mingling with the more buttoned-up artgoing types!

best wishes
Sarah

------------------------------

From: FurryPressII@aol.com
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 23:39:25 EST
Subject: [Baren 16302] Re: Jan 

I  have a book an chinese wood cuts printed in the people's rep.  the prints 
are diverse and it is a good history of older work but the text is a bit 
politically preachy i will look for it and give you the tittle and publisher. 
 It is a rather large book with many ilustrations some in color it does fill 
the void of no work published on chinese wood cuts

john center

------------------------------

From: "Ramsey Household" <cjramsey@mind.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 22:32:00 -0800
Subject: [Baren 16303] Fw:  A VIRUS TRAP FOR MAIL 

We had a problem with our E-mail and a virus.  This should solve the 
problem for anyone who received an attachemnent (which we didn't send) 
from us and got a virus flag.

Carolyn Ramsey
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Dick Tevault
To: Undisclosed-Recipient:@ego.mind.net;
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2001 2:44 PM
Subject: A VIRUS TRAP FOR MAIL


The following was pulled from an article in the Nov 2001 PC World. It is 
designed to trap viruses that use your email account. When the defective 
mail address is returned to you, you know that you have an infection of 
OUTLOOK AND OUTLOOK EXPRESS Software. EVEN IF YOU USE NETSCAPE MAIL OR 
AOL, this little jewel will let you know that you have a virus. This 
also has the server reject your contaminated mail no matter how many 
valid email addresses are in it, so you do not spread the virus any 
further.

Here's how easy it is to do:

Create an Invalid Address Book entry
1. Enter a bogus first and last name starting with a non alphabet 
charater, such as " *virus &trap ", without the quotes.
2. Next enter <illegaladdress as the email address. DO NOT add @ or 
anything else to the address. When you click Add, Outlook will tell you 
it's not a complete address and ask you if you still want to add it. 
Click yes, then Click OK.

When your virus tries to mail itself to the addresses in your address 
book, the first address it mails itself to is <illegaladdress         
Since this is the first entry the mail server will encounter (THE < SIGN 
ENSURES THIS), it will reject the message and in many cases the message 
will be sent back without sending it to the rest of your friends, who 
would then hold you in disfavor for infecting them.

I recommend that you forward this to as many people as possible. The 
author of this trick is Alex Censor. The article is on page 61

And of course I always recommend sending mail BCC, or Blind Carbon Copy, 
instead of To: or Cc:

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End of Baren Digest V17 #1636
*****************************