Baren Digest               Tuesday, 12 March 2002       Volume 18 : Number 1758


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Graham <gscholes@woodblock.info>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 07:20:40 -0800
Subject: [Baren 17444] Re: Curiousity 


>Hey Graham, I was looking through the past exchanges, trying to get a handle
>on this Hanga stuff, which I plan on trying very soon.
>
>I decided to go to the Baren Forum Exchange site which has the posts of all
>the previous exchanges, when I noticed that in all the exchanges you
>participated in, your prints are "removed".
>What's up?  Why are all your prints gone?
>I thought as a part of the "group" and your experience, yours were the first
>Hanga ones I looked for, but they are gone.
>Why are yours not a part of the Baren pages?


You will have to ask Mr Bull.

I suspect when we parted ways he removed them.  I asked him to remove any of 
my how-to reference material and links from his site, he also removed the exchange 
images I guess. 

It is not a big deal as I only participated in two of them.  I have, and have had, 
so much on the ol' plater that the exchanges get shuffled to the back of the line. 
Priorities... it's all got to do with priorities.

Shortly I will have some announcements regarding several matters.  I am waiting for 
all the ducks to be lined up...

You can see the pieces at...  http://www.woodblock.info/maryellen.html for all none 
lighthouse prints or in particular the two that would have been on the exchange site. 
http://www.woodblock.info/fisher.html
and
http://www.woodblock.info/Sundance.html This is a different state than the exchange 
piece which had 3 red umbrellas and the rain was mauve. I titled it "Raindance"  At 
the time I felt is was important to define the two weather conditions.

Have a good day, which is almost half gone where you are.

Regards

Graham


------------------------------

From: Legreenart@cs.com
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 15:21:48 EST
Subject: [Baren 17445] Re: Baren Digest V18 #1757 


Sorry, nothing on the web. The web site is currently neglected, as we are 
overwhelmed and have no interns currently. I will get some on soon, I hoe, 
but I
m not able to make promises.
Yours, 
Le Green
Stonemetal Press
Email: legreenart@cs.com
http://www.stonemetal-press.com


------------------------------

From: "Maria Arango" <maria@mariarango.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 13:15:23 -0800
Subject: [Baren 17446] way long from now 

Howdy all,

This is a request for those living in the S.F./Sacramento, California, US
area. Way long from now (October) I have two indoor festivals two weekends
apart. I would love to leave my trailer in the area after the S.F festival
so that I don't have to drag it 800 miles home only to drag it back 800
miles to Sacramento a week later. If anyone owns a home and would loan me
street front parking for a week I would be most grateful (read: be willing
to pay for the priviledge). Alternatively, if anyone knows of a storage yard
with decent security, I would be most obliged for the information.
Alternatively alternatively, I can look on the web, but it is tough to
assess the friendliness of the neighborhood from fancy advertising pictures.

Maria

<><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
Maria Arango
Las Vegas, Nevada, USA
http://www.1000woodcuts.com
maria@mariarango.com
<><><><><><><><><><><><><><>


------------------------------

From: sirima <sirima@hwy1studios.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 14:18:24 -0800
Subject: [Baren 17447] Need advice for printing on heavyweight paper 

Hi,
I'm new to Baren (digest version). I'm having difficulty tracking all the
threads and voices but have been thoroughly enjoying the digest. What a
wonderful group of people you are.

I have a printing question. I (think) that both Jan and Maria have referred
to printing w/ baren on heavyweight paper, large format and editioning w/
oil.

The series of blocks that I'm working on are all about 25" x 37".
http://www.hwy1studios.com/Portfolio/ss_art/trees/
Usually proof on dry mulberry or masa (50-70 gm2) 27" x 40" using Daniel
Smith's water soluble trad relief ink (oil) and a wooden spoon on a
cool,foggy days. (I live by the ocean). The proofs come out great but I'm
not happy with the paper for editioning.

SO..I edition on dry Rives Light Weight (115-117gm2) 26" x 40" using D Smith
or Graphic Chemical traditional relief ink (oil) but have not been able to
get the right pressure by hand using a plastic ball bearing baren or wooden
spoon. During my last flare up of  tendonitis  I tried using an etching
press. Ick. The press was idiosyncratic and adequate pressure on the rotary
press caused my paper stretch 1/8" -1/4".

Hmm. Maria's message about her "wonderful little baren" made me think I
should try hand printing again but I think I need some advice and a better
baren. I'm not much of a 'edition' printer and the printing has been SO
frustrating.. help.

Does anyone know of professional grade large format paper that is under 80
gm? I seem to have better success at that paper wt.

Does anyone have advice for getting a crisp edition of 30 + on heavy wt
paper over 100gm2. (was someone using Rives BFK?)

What do we think about printing on dry vs damp paper?

Does anyone print their blocks on a rotary or litho press?


thx

sirima



------------------------------

From: Jack Reisland <reislandj001@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 13:01:14 -1000
Subject: [Baren 17448] Re: Need advice for printing on heavyweight paper 

Hi Sirima,

   you are looking for advice on printing, but after looking at your
site, I can't help but wonder what you used to print the prints there?
Your prints, and the images are very good, nice use of line and black
and white!

Jack R.


------------------------------

From: Charles Morgan <cmorgan@uvic.ca>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 14:58:45 -0800
Subject: [Baren 17449] rice paste 

All you folks who are hanga-ing out ... How do I make rice paste?

Can I just boil up some rice flour like I would for wheat flour paste ???
Proportions, directions ???

Can I buy it premade?  Where ??

Thanks ...... Charles

------------------------------

From: Aqua4tis@aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 18:11:32 EST
Subject: [Baren 17450] Re: rice paste 

mcclains carries tubes of rice paste

------------------------------

From: Mike Lyon <mikelyon@mlyon.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 17:23:19 -0600
Subject: [Baren 17451] Re: Need advice for printing on heavyweight paper

Look like nice prints, Sirima, but it's hard to really get the sense of a 
36" print when it's only a few hundred pixels high.

I'm assuming the paper stretching is making inky ghosts during printing -- 
crisp where the paper enters the press and worst where it leaves the 
press?  You could try running the paper through the press several timesto 
pre-stretch it before you print it.  Are you sure it's stretching and not 
creeping?

I suppose you have already tried printing on an etching press or litho 
press with the paper (wet or dry) against the bed and the block upside down 
on top?  Depending on the block and carving, don't over-do the pressure! 
You can also attach block to another, heavier block...  Or, for variable 
embossing, place rubber pad between bed and paper.  This method will work 
on any paper, but paper texture can be an issue.

I imagine the lightweight mulberry paper in that relatively large size 
would be so delicate and so elegant -- also inexpensive...  What is there 
not to like about it?

- -- Mike


At 02:18 PM 3/11/2002 -0800, you wrote:


>Hi,
>I'm new to Baren (digest version). I'm having difficulty tracking all the 
>threads and voices but have been thoroughly enjoying the digest. What a 
>wonderful group of people you are.
>
>I have a printing question. I (think) that both Jan and Maria have 
>referred to printing w/ baren on heavyweight paper, large format and 
>editioning w/ oil.
>
>The series of blocks that I'm working on are all about 25" x 37".
>http://www.hwy1studios.com/Portfolio/ss_art/trees/
>Usually proof on dry mulberry or masa (50-70 gm2) 27" x 40" using Daniel 
>Smith's water soluble trad relief ink (oil) and a wooden spoon on a 
>cool,foggy days. (I live by the ocean). The proofs come out great but I'm 
>not happy with the paper for editioning.
>
>SO..I edition on dry Rives Light Weight (115-117gm2) 26" x 40" using D 
>Smith or Graphic Chemical traditional relief ink (oil) but have not been 
>able to get the right pressure by hand using a plastic ball bearing baren 
>or wooden spoon. During my last flare up of  tendonitis  I tried using an 
>etching press. Ick. The press was idiosyncratic and adequate pressure on 
>the rotary press caused my paper stretch 1/8" -1/4".
>
>Hmm. Maria's message about her "wonderful little baren" made me think I 
>should try hand printing again but I think I need some advice and a better 
>baren. I'm not much of a 'edition' printer and the printing has been SO 
>frustrating.. help.
> * Does anyone know of professional grade large format paper that is 
> under 80 gm? I seem to have better success at that paper wt.
> * Does anyone have advice for getting a crisp edition of 30 + on heavy 
> wt paper over 100gm2. (was someone using Rives BFK?)
> * What do we think about printing on dry vs damp paper?
> * Does anyone print their blocks on a rotary or litho press?
>thx
>
>sirima




------------------------------

From: Mike Lyon <mikelyon@mlyon.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 17:24:23 -0600
Subject: [Baren 17452] Cathy Caraccio 

Anybody know a moku-hanga printer, Cathy Caraccio ??  Tell me about her, 
please?

Mike
Mike Lyon
mailto:mikelyon@mlyon.com
http://www.mlyon.com 

------------------------------

From: David Bull <davebull@woodblock.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 08:34:42 +0900
Subject: [Baren 17453] Re: Curiousity 

Dan wrote:

>> What's up?  Why are all your prints gone?
>> I thought as a part of the "group" and your experience, yours were the 
>> first
>> Hanga ones I looked for, but they are gone.
>> Why are yours not a part of the Baren pages?


Mr. Scholes replied:

> You will have to ask Mr Bull.
>
> I suspect when we parted ways he removed them.  I asked him to remove 
> any of my how-to reference material and links from his site, he also 
> removed the exchange images I guess.


Well, since you asked Graham, I guess that it would be OK to quote the 
email you sent a while back:


> Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2001 20:12:56 -0700
> From: Graham <gscholes@home.com>
> Subject: Delete all references
>
> Please remove all references to my name, any links and/or original
> material submitted to  http://barenforum.org/
>
> Advise when this request is completed.
>
>
> Graham


I did as you asked.

Since that time, I have heard from a number of members who thought that 
I should not have followed your instructions. They felt that once 
material had been submitted to the Encyclopedia or to an Exchange, it 
should not be withdrawn. But I'm not interested in 'legal' points; if 
you don't want to contribute, or don't want to be part of the exchanges 
or other [Baren] affairs, then that is your call.

Dave


------------------------------

From: Myron Turner <mturner@Ms.UManitoba.CA>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 19:02:44 -0600
Subject: [Baren 17454] Re: Need advice for printing on heavyweight paper 

You don't say what problems you encounter when using either the baren or a 
press.

Oil-based inks were developed for use with presses and you should be able 
to print your blocks on an etching press, using western papers, and get 
excellent results.

The fact that you attribute the expansion of your paper to the etching 
press, suggests that you are applying too much pressure.

While you can use Japanese papers for large blocks, light weight  western 
papers will tend to crerase and buckle when printed on an etching 
press.  In my own prints,  I use both Rives BFK and Arches cover.

Here are some suggestions for printing with oil-based inks on an etching 
press.

1. To begin with you want to print against a relatively hard surface, i.e. 
don't use etching blankets unless you want to achieve a particular 
effect.  Instead, use a piece of printing paper about 250-300 grams. You 
can use the BFK, the Arches cover may not be smooth enough.  This is your 
"tympan" sheet; it goes between the cylinder and the paper on which you are 
printing.

2.  Raise the cylinder up until the block plus the tympan sheet can slide 
freely between the cylinder and the press bed.  Instead of your block, you 
might want to use wood from the same stock, i.e. so that it's the same 
height.  This way you don't risk injuring your block while adjusting the press.

3  Slowly lower the cylinder, equally from both ends until the cylinder 
engages the block plus tympan.  On most etching presses at this point the 
screws will feel loose (but not all).  Try your best to lower the cylinder 
so that it is square to the block.  It's a good idea to place your block 
(or its substitute) at the center and a piece of wood of from the same 
stock at either end of the cylinder.

4.  Take a test print using newsprint or bond paper.  From this you will be 
able to judge whether the overall impression is even, i.e. whether the 
cylinder is aligned squarely with the press bed, and whether there is 
enough overall impression.   Make any adjustments necessary, turning the 
screw only a quarter of a turn at any time.  Take another proof.

5.  Dampen your paper--this should actually be done in advance of adjusting 
the press, so that the paper will be ready when you are ready to print.  Do 
not soak the paper, as you would do for etching.  Instead, use a brush--for 
this I use a wide Japanese brush with soft hair--and brush the water on 
**sparingly**.   Make a stack of paper in which you dampen every other 
sheet.  Place the stack in a plastic bag, close up its end, and when you 
are doing this, squeeze out any excess air.  Place a weight--it doesn't 
have to be heavy--on top of the  bag of paper but the weight should be 
spread evenly across the entire surface of the stack.  A piece of 1/2 inch 
plywood should work.  I use beaver board, which is quite light weight.  In 
most cases you don't have to let the stack sit for more than 1/2 an hour.

6.  When you use the paper it should not be **wet** and therefore 
floppy.  It should ideally be cool to the cheek.  If you are printing a 
large edition---which I never do so haven't had the experience--you might 
want to limit your self to 15 sheets at a time.  This way the paper won't 
dry out, on the one hand, and the atmosphere in the plastic bag won't be 
too humid.

7.  After your remove a sheet for printing, close the bag back up and set 
the weight back on top.

8.  Lay the printing sheet on top of the block and place the tympan on top 
of the printing sheet.  Then hold down this sandwich of block--printing 
paper--tympan and move it up towards the cylinder.  Keep holding the 
sandwich while you crank the wheel--this is so that the paper doesn't 
move.  Once its engaged by the cylinder you don't have to hold it any more.

Myron






At 02:18 PM 11/03/2002 -0800, you wrote:


>Hi,
>
>I have a printing question. I (think) that both Jan and Maria have 
>referred to printing w/ baren on heavyweight paper, large format and 
>editioning w/ oil.
>
>The series of blocks that I'm working on are all about 25" x 37".
>http://www.hwy1studios.com/Portfolio/ss_art/trees/
>Usually proof on dry mulberry or masa (50-70 gm2) 27" x 40" using Daniel 
>Smith's water soluble trad relief ink (oil) and a wooden spoon on a 
>cool,foggy days. (I live by the ocean). The proofs come out great but I'm 
>not happy with the paper for editioning.
>
>SO..I edition on dry Rives Light Weight (115-117gm2) 26" x 40" using D 
>Smith or Graphic Chemical traditional relief ink (oil) but have not been 
>able to get the right pressure by hand using a plastic ball bearing baren 
>or wooden spoon. During my last flare up of  tendonitis  I tried using an 
>etching press. Ick. The press was idiosyncratic and adequate pressure on 
>the rotary press caused my paper stretch 1/8" -1/4".
> * Does anyone have advice for getting a crisp edition of 30 + on heavy 
> wt paper over 100gm2. (was someone using Rives BFK?)
> * What do we think about printing on dry vs damp paper?
> * Does anyone print their blocks on a rotary or litho press?
>
>
>
>thx
>
>sirima


Myron Turner
  http://www.room535.org/mt/
--land safely in cyberspace--


------------------------------

From: FurryPressII@aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 20:17:18 EST
Subject: [Baren 17455] Re: Need advice for printing on heavyweight paper 

on printing on heavy paper such as arches  seems to print well on a 
vandercook.  The problem with a etching press is one of two much pressure.  
Back of the pressure a bit.

Run the paper through the press a couple of times  should strech out the 
paper.

lightler amout of ink than in hand printing and you might want to dampen the 
paper.

I am asuming you don't use the etching blankets.   a couple sheets of oak tag 
or other hard paper would work.

John Center

------------------------------

From: Charles Morgan <cmorgan@uvic.ca>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 17:30:17 -0800
Subject: [Baren 17456] rice paste 

Who, what, where is mcclains ???

Can I make my own rice paste, or must I buy it?

------------------------------

From: David Bull <davebull@woodblock.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 10:43:42 +0900
Subject: [Baren 17457] Re: rice paste 

Charles wrote:

> Can I make my own rice paste, or must I buy it?
>

I thought others might jump in and answer this earlier today, but as 
that hasn't happened, I'll try and fill in ...

Charles, please head to the main website at:
http://barenforum.org

.. and scroll down the page until you get to the Encyclopedia index.  In 
the 'Materials' section, click on the link for 'pigments'. You will find 
plenty of material to fill your 'curiosity' about paste   [:-)] 

Dave


------------------------------

From: Aqua4tis@aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 21:01:41 EST
Subject: [Baren 17458] Re: rice paste 

mcclains is a printmaking supply house in protland oregon      they 
specialize in woodcut tools and hanga supplies   you can call them at    
1-800-832-4264  and get their catalog  
   you can also make your own paste

------------------------------

From: Bette Wappner <bettewappner@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 21:02:58 -0500
Subject: [Baren 17459] Dave Bull's  live web cam is on 

Dear Dave and all

I'm a lurker here at Baren and am loving all the information you wonderful
people have to share.  Everyone is fantastic.

I'm also glad that I can finally see Mr. Bull work via his live web cam.
What a great opportunity this is and I'm grateful for the effort he has put
out to share this with us and the world.

Go to:   http://www.woodblock.com/webcam/thumb_camera.html

I will introduce myself properly at another time soon.

Sincerely,
Bette Wappner
northern Kentucky - greater Cincinnati, OH area.




------------------------------

From: "Lee and Barbara Mason" <bemason@concentric.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 18:07:51 -0800
Subject: [Baren 17460] Need advice for printing on heavyweight paper 


> Does anyone know of professional grade large format paper that 
>is under 80 gm? I seem to have better success at that paper wt.
  
  I think you can use any paper and a press, try printing it upside 
down, use a piece of mat board under the paper for a bit of cushion. My 
press will not do linoblock well right side up. It has something to do 
with the size of the top roller and the way my press is made.

>Does anyone have advice for getting a crisp edition of 30 + on 
>heavy wt paper over 100gm2. (was someone using     Rives BFK?)

  Use damp paper, it will print better. I use arches 88 dry a lot with 
oil based inks printed on a press as I stated above.




>What do we think about printing on dry vs damp paper?

  It depends on what you put in the ink. Some inks print better on damp 
paper. I print both ways. Damp paper will almost always pull more ink 
off the plate.



>Does anyone print their blocks on a rotary or litho press?

  I think a litho press would be hard to use on lino blocks, as you have 
to drop the bar on the block. Maria may have more ideas as she uses lots 
of papers. She will be away for a week, so send her an email in a week 
for more informaiton. she prints with oil based inks.

  Best to you,
  Barbara



------------------------------

End of Baren Digest V18 #1758
*****************************