Baren Digest             Thursday, 16 January 2003     Volume 22 : Number 2096


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From: Milky Scarabs <milkyscarabs#earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 18:10:13 -0700
Subject: [Baren 20437] julio #15 



>>Hey Mike..just want to make sure I have everything covered before doing my 
>>print run for #15....let me know if I missed any requirements..
>>
>>multi-block
>> no oil (waterbased only)
>>no press (hand printed - baren or other tool)
>>on japanese papers only
>>5X15" to 5.5X15.5" size limit
>>31 needed for the exchange
>>mailed by 2/01/2003
>>
>>is that it ? did I missed anything ?
>>
>>thanks...........Julio
>>

julio,
sounds almost right.  i took the "deadline" of february 1st, 2003, to 
mean that the prints should be here in tucson by that day.  everything 
else on your list looks in order.  i'll be looking for you in my mailbox! :)

love <3 & lint * !
kat pukas
exchange #15 coordinator
http://home.earthlink.net/~milkyscarabs


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From: "Maria Diener (aka Arango)" <maria#mariarango.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 18:05:45 -0800
Subject: [Baren 20438] notes on the Japanese method from a rookie 


If I may be so bold, after just one print, I would like to offer some
obvious improvements to the Japanese method:

- -Forget those antiquated hakobi for putting paste/pigment on the block,
drive to your nearest casino and grab a handful of those cocktail stirring
sticks. After the printing is over, you can always use them to stir your
cocktail.

- -In the name of continuity of printing, keep some sugar and milk handy by
your rice paste bowl. When lunch time comes around, don't stop printing,
just add a bit of sugar and milk to your rice paste (to taste) and dip your
aformentioned cocktail stirrer in the rice paste but instead of wasting it
on the block, eat it.

- -The Japanese were masters at registration, but frankly I tired quickly of
those boring perfectly registered prints; the solution was to carefully
place the paper on the kento upside down...lo and behold! the creative
possibilities!

- -Again, perfect impressions are fine and good but really boring, so I wanted
to chunk the pigment and paste the way I'm used to doing it with oil based
inks. Simply double charge your brush and use a table spoon to glob on some
rice paste (seasoned to taste as before)--presto! gooey gloppy messy pigment
all over (under, beside, and in between) your fine lines!

- -For interesting and unexpected hair-like marks, allow your kittens to free
roam the studio just prior to printing. The very exciting hair marks pop up
everywhere, giving your print an, ummm, very unusual furry look which varies
from print to print.

I think those were all I can think of for now. After tomorrow I should have
more improvements.

Maria, still having fun!

PS On an unrelated note, if ANYONE is even THINKING of dropping out because
their prints didn't quite make the grade--please PLEASE don't! I don't want
my poor prints (and I mean that in more ways than one) to be lonely.

<||><||><||><||><||><||>
     Maria Arango
  Las Vegas Nevada USA
  www.1000woodcuts.com
<||><||><||><||><||><||>



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From: michael schneider <mikasch#t0.or.at>
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 03:11:34 +0100
Subject: [Baren 20439] Re: block printing workshop 

Dear Matthew,

if you are willing to go anywhere, there is a workshop in first week of 
July at the "art didacta" in Innsbruck / Austria. One week intensive. 
Not exactly in Japan but if you choose the right direction almost half 
the way.
The exact details of the workshop are not known to me right now but will 
be soon.

Michael Schneider
Vienna

BTW: everybody, get rid of the nylon covered baren, its of no use.

Lopas, Matthew wrote:


>does anybody know of a really good intensive beginning block printing
>workshop? I would prefer it to be in a nice location but will go anywhere.
>Is there anything in Japan?
>
>  >

>>----------
>>From: 	Mike Lyon
>>Reply To: 	baren#ml.asahi-net.or.jp
>>Sent: 	Wednesday, January 15, 2003 12:22 PM
>>To: 	baren#ml.asahi-net.or.jp
>>Subject: 	[Baren 20426] Re: Hand Printing question
>>
>>At 11:10 AM 1/15/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>>    >>

>>>How well does that Speedball nylon covered baren work? The
>>>spoons can take awhile to get into good shape. What do you all think, as
>>>I try to confirm my supply list?
>>>TyRuS
>>>      >>>

>>Dear TyRuS,
>>
>>By the way, why do you capitalize like that?
>>
>>I absolutely HATE my speedball nylon covered baren !!!!  Save the $17 and 
>>buy the $3.80 Pla-Barens from Baren-Mall 
>>http://www.barenforum.org/mall/products/barens.html Those will give a 
>>better feel.  Or 'splurge' and order the Sosaku-Baren for $36 (same link).
>>
>>Mike
>>
>>
>>
>>Mike Lyon
>>mailto:mikelyon#mlyon.com
>>http://www.mlyon.com  >>
>>


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From: Cyndy Wilson <crwilson#icehouse.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 20:53:20 -0700
Subject: [Baren 20440] Re:   Baren Digest V21 #2077 

My sympathies to you Dean.

Cyndy Wilson



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From: John and Jan Telfer <jtelfer#iinet.net.au>
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 03 20:49:00 +0800
Subject: [Baren 20441] Dry Pigment Mixing - HELP! 

I have bought some Langridge Artists Dry Ground Pigments - very finely 
ground.

No Manufacturing place but Jacksons buy it from Victoria, Australia and 
they aren't stocking them any more (bought in December) ...now getting a 
Western Australian pigment (but presumably imported from somewhere else, 
probably China!)

There are no mixing instructions on any of the labels only a "Harmful by 
inhalation" label, which goes on to say "Keep away from fluid, drink and 
animal feeding stuffs.  When using DO NOT eat, drink or smoke.  DO NOT 
breathe in dust."

I have bought myself a dust mask.  (That is after I got a sore throat 
which I still have)

I rang the supplier - our only Art Supply Store chain in Perth and the 
fellow had to look up his recipe sheet!!!  He suggested 15 gms of Gum 
Arabic, pour over 60 mls of boiling water and leave overnight before 
adding to the 1 teaspoon of powdered pigment.  I then threw a spanner in 
the works by saying "that must be granulated Gum Arabic and not the 
liquid form"!!!  They only sell the liquid form at Jacksons .... So, he 
wasn't much help, but I will ring him back after my little chemistry 
laboratory has some results to give him!!!!

I have tried mixing them with water, but the powder just floats on top.
I added a few drops of Gum Arabic (liquid) to the powder and mixed madly 
but it didn't seem to do much.  Added a little water to that and for 
black it mixed in but left an oily looking film on the water.  The Gum 
Arabic also helped a little with the yellow and yellow-red mix, but it 
has still separated.  My Calligraphy pro said that it doesn't matter how 
much Gum Arabic is added to the colour, but helps with flow, eg. pen 
calligraphy.

Ox Gall worked well with the blue, but the yellow didn't mix at all.

Metholated spirits worked well with the yellow and I also added it to a 
couple of the other colours, but by then I had so much mixed in together 
that I think I have a lethal cocktail and might have to start again from 
scratch!

The Metho was the best for most of the colours I tried but the smell 
really "Puts me Off".

I took my problem down to the local Chemist and he thought glycerine 
liquid which I also tried, but I think that after a couple of days that 
is the Blue-Oche mixture that has settled on the bottom and needs a stir 
frequently.  I think I also added Gum Arabic drops to that too!!!

Graham suggested a few drops of ISOPROPANOL which is an antiseptic.  The 
chemist is ordering it in for me.  I think that is what I used at 
Bootcamp especially with the blue and I think that it worked like magic, 
so I will wait for the Chemist to get that in for me before I mix again.

I even tried Windex which is a window washing agent ... like metho 
without the smell, but it didn't seem to do anything.

The pigments really stain everything - kitchen bench, laundary bench, 
laundary trough, hands so much so that it looks like I have jaundice!!  
But, it all cleans up very well with concentrated dish washing liquid.   
I even tried that.  I am not sure now which concocition I used that in!!

I thought that before I went through all my 120 ml jars of pigment @ 
approx $16 Australian each I should ask for help!

I have a mortar and pestal, but nothing has gone lumpy.  The pigment just 
seems to float on the water even though I mixed the water to the powder 
in droplets and stirred like crazy. But it is so fine that it really does 
get airborne very quickly even quicker than leaf gold if anyone has used 
that .... you have to hold your breath while you are applying it.

Tomorrow I am going to get out my sturdy Windsor & Newton tubs and mix 
them up for my Hanga 15 as I am now panicking BIG TIME.  I thought these 
would be so much easier to use....Ha Ha Ha!  They may be when I get the 
ingredients right!

I'd appreciate any help or suggestions anyone has.

Help!

Jan
In isolated Western Australia but still civilised!

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End of Baren Digest V22 #2096
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