Today's postings

  1. [Baren 25053] teaching opportunity ("April Vollmer")
  2. [Baren 25054] Re: Baren Digest (old) V27 #2648 (Mary Brooks-Mueller)
  3. [Baren 25055] Re:Cross Colour Contamination (Jan Telfer)
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Message 1
From: "April Vollmer"
Date: Fri, 14 May 2004 10:54:55 -0400
Subject: [Baren 25053] teaching opportunity
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Janet Weber at Snow Farm, the New England Craft Program, is looking for a
hanga woodcut teacher for a week long Elderhostel in beautiful Williamsburg
MA, May 23 to 29.

She is offering a place to stay in a beautiful area, dining hall with lovely
food, pay is low but teaching there is a great experience, nice community.

Interested parties please contact Janet at 413-268-3101,

Thank you very much.

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Message 2
From: Mary Brooks-Mueller
Date: Fri, 14 May 2004 18:47:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Baren 25054] Re: Baren Digest (old) V27 #2648
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If my memory is right, pipestone --catlinite-- is
clay-based in it's physical chemistry, so it tends to
not have any grain and is a more pure substance. Also
it's distribution tends to be controlled by a few
Native tribes, ex: the Sioux and other Plains Indian
folk in the north.
Soapstone --steatite?-- is basically a mineral talc
and the mineral can attract others substances like
silica, abestos (especially in California for some
reason). I do think it is a bit more forgiving than
pipestone and the blacker type is some harder, but
soapstone tends to carry a grain according to what
other minerals it contains in the talc. I think it
might clog up dremel type tools or rasp a bit quicker
I have been told that in order of lung safety the
stones are: pipestone, alabaster, gypsum, soapstone.

Also, the polished shine can be obtained by heating
the stone some and using beeswax to buff it out. If
you want to print off that shiney surface I think the
wax doesnot interfere with inking. Pipestone is real
absorbant and the wax obviously controls that.

This is what I've tried anyway, buffing and wait a day
or two before inking to print.. But, for me, I don't
like to use a glassy surface, so I work the wax by
hand onto a bit of a rougher surface that I've hand
cut, Use a light buffing wheel to clean it up and then

I'm also working with postage size pieces, 1" x 1.5"

Let me know what happens.
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Message 3
From: Jan Telfer
Date: Sat, 15 May 2004 20:33:53 +0800
Subject: [Baren 25055] Re:Cross Colour Contamination
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Mike and Barbara,

Thank you for your replies.

The red is very strong and I will have another look at the drying
prints to see if the yellow does come through enough if I put it under
the red. It does look better at present on top of it. I may have to
do as you suggested too and just keep cleaning the brush and the block
every few prints..... really it won't matter much if it does turn to an
orange but to go from yellow to orange in 8 prints just imagine what it
will become on the 40th!