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Message 1
From: ArtfulCarol # aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 09:18:03 EDT
Subject: [Baren 30784] Puzzle Project I
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For more information about Maria's first Baren Puzzle Project which was
shown at the Donnell Library Center, NYC, last year.
http_://www.barenforum.org/blog/archives/2005/07/index.html_
(http://www.barenforum.org/blog/archives/2005/07/index.html)
Thanks to Maria and to Julio for uploading this.

44 participated then, more than 70 for the current Puzzle--Cairns.


Carol Lyons
Irvington, NY

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Message 2
From: Kris Shanks
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 06:32:38 -0700
Subject: [Baren 30785] proofing
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I have a question for all you western style printers. How do you go
about proofing a print with multiple blocks and colors?

Kris Shanks
www.shanksart.com

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Message 3
From: "Robert Viana"
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 12:01:42 -0200
Subject: [Baren 30786] Re: proofing
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I spend a lot of time printing the blocks. To get to the end result I want I have pulled more than 200 prints for a 30 print series using 6 blocks. (Exchange #27)
I have a pre-conceived idea of what I want, and while I am test printing, I use the process of elimination to get the right combinations. Sometimes it goes fairly well, other times I have nothing good to show for after a few days printing. Regardless, I love printing. If I print and have nothing to show for after a weeks time, it doesn't matter. I will not give up and try again. That is why I am a printmaker. The process of making prints is just as important to me as the outcome.
ahh. Ok, I digressed a little here. Sorry.
cheers, and happy printmaking!
rob


>
> I have a question for all you western style printers. How do you go about
> proofing a print with multiple blocks and colors?

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Message 4
From: Barbara Mason
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 08:14:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Baren 30787] Re: proofing
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Kris,
I think you do it the same way you would with waterbased inks...but it would be a little faster in inking and printing and a little slower in cleanup. Or you could use colored pencils, laying a sheet of paper over the first block and rubbing a pencil over it to color the shapes, then move to a second block and second pencil on the same paper...not rocket science but it does work.
Best to you,
Barbara

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Message 5
From: Bobbi Chukran
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 11:02:24 -0500
Subject: [Baren 30788] Re: proofing
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>I have a question for all you western style printers. How do you go
>about proofing a print with multiple blocks and colors?
>

Hi Kris,

Love your prints......I've been experimenting with a combo of lino
and woodcuts with monoprinting, too. It's an easy way to have
something that looks like a series, yet are totally different.

Looks like your Etsy store is doing well for you.....I've often
wondered about it.

As for proofing....I'm with the ones who say they just do a lot of
prints and pick out the good ones to develop.

Bobbi C.
http://www.bobbichukran.com/woodblock-prints.html

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Message 6
From: Kris Shanks
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 10:26:09 -0700
Subject: [Baren 30789] Re: proofing
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Thanks for all your speedy replies. Barbara, I would never have
thought about taking rubbings off the blocks, thanks for that idea!

I guess I need to be more specific about my question. Most of my
multi-color printing so far has been reduction prints. Proofing a
reduction print follows what I think of as "destructive proofing": I
print more than I think I need of the first color, and with each new
state of the block, some of the prints are sacrificed to proofing the
next color.

So I've been wanting to move towards multiple blocks because I want
to be able to adjust the colors relative to each other, particularly
when I have overlapping areas of color. I guess I've been inspired by
Marissa's use of transparent colors superimposed. Here's the
question. Do you mix up all your inks and roll up all the blocks at
once, printing wet on wet? Or do you proof over the course of a few
days, waiting for prints to dry in between? Or is there something I'm
missing here?

Kris Shanks
www.shanksart.com

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Message 7
From: "Marissa "
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 13:29:18 -0400
Subject: [Baren 30790] Re: proofing
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I seem to be the only one that doesn't proof at all. I just go for it and
see what happens when I print.

--
~marissa lee

www.mleefineart.com

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Message 8
From: Barbara Mason
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 18:30:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Baren 30791] Re: proofing
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Kris,
Well, it depends....
On what kind of ink you are using and if it is transparent or opaque
On what you put in the ink
I use lithography ink from Graphic Chemical and mix it half ink, 1/4 setswell and 1/4 transparent base. I use very thin layers of ink and print twice if I want it darker. Rarely have to do this as there is so much pigment in litho ink. I print wet on wet with this process, one block right behind the other up to 5 or so....I mix up all the colors at the beginning, adjusting as I go.
If you use opaque ink you need to let the layers dry between printing and I would put dryer in your ink or you might be waiting years for 5 layers to dry. I never print this way, but I have in the past. I am way way way too impatient to let layers dry.

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Message 9
From: Barbara Mason
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 18:50:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Baren 30792] Re: proofing
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Somehow this got away from me before I finished it....typical of my life the last few weeks.

I wanted to talk a bit about paper....I like arches 88 for dry printing and also some oriental papers. Masa prints very well and I have used Stonehenge. Also Kitakata is great for multiple layers of transparent ink.

I print a lot on damp paper as it pulls off more ink when using oil based ink. If you pre stretch the paper by running it through the press before you print, you will find there is little movement of the size of the paper with multiple printings. I like BFK and Arches Cover, even Rives light weight and heavy weight work well. There are so many good papers, trial and error will give you good results eventually. What one person loves, another hates.

If you are printing by hand, use lighter weight papers to save your arm. Masa prints well with a baren as does kitakata and rives lightweight. Print on the smooth side of oriental papers as that is the sized side.
Best to all,
Barbara

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Message 10
From: Bobbi Chukran
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 20:55:25 -0500
Subject: [Baren 30793] Re: proofing
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>If you are printing by hand, use lighter weight papers to save your
>arm. Masa prints well with a baren as does kitakata and rives
>lightweight. Print on the smooth side of oriental papers as that is
>the sized side.
>

Where do ya'll buy your printmaking papers?

Bobbi C.

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Message 11
From: slinders # comcast.net
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 21:16:42 -0500
Subject: [Baren 30794] Re: proofing
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I'm close to Graphic Ink and Chemical (Chicago area), so that's
a given! And their prices are better than most anyone else
that's in the neighborhood. They have most of the papers
Barbara mentioned. (I print oily, though.)

I think that most of their business is mail order.

Sharen

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Message 12
From: Blog Manager
Date: 29 Apr 2006 03:55:06 -0000
Subject: [Baren 30795] Baren Member blogs: Update Notification
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This is an automatic update message being sent to [Baren] by the forum blog software.

The following new entries were found on the listed printmaker's websites during the past 24 hours. (18 sites checked, just before midnight Eastern time)

*****************

Site Name: Woodblock Dreams

Author: Annie B
Item: Anniversary Print
http://woodblockdreams.blogspot.com/2006/04/anniversary-print.html

*****************

Site Name: m.Lee Fine Art

Author: m.Lee
Item: Octopus / Sale on Etsy
http://mleeprints.blogspot.com/2006/04/octopus-sale-on-etsy.html

*****************

Site Name: The Itinerant Artist

Author: Diane Cutter
Item:
http://theitinerantartist.blogspot.com/2006/04/this-print-was-done-on-vinyl-plate.html

*****************

[Baren] members: if you have a printmaking blog (or a website with a published ATOM feed), and wish it to be included in this daily checklist, please write to the Baren Blog Manager at:
http://barenforum.org/contact_baren.php

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Message 13
From: Lana Lambert
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 21:50:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Baren 30796] Re: Baren Digest (old) V35 #3460
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Dear Forum,

I'm wondering if any of you have run into a similar
problem. I tried to print an edition with Edgworthia.
This paper is a type that McClain's sells. I tried
it originally for one edition and found it to shed
fibers profusely onto the block whenever sufficient
pressure was applied via baren for a nice solid
colour. I thought perhaps that maybe size had
something to do with it. (The print size was 28X9 and
I thought maybe that was too unweildy for the paper I
was using) I decided to use the paper instead on a
smaller print size and still ran into some problems.
The murosaki baren I was using was getting a great
impression but the fibers were sticking to the block
like last time. I switched to a crappy el-cheapo
baren you find in hobby shops and though the shapes
came out grainy, it didn't matter when you layered
them for a gradiation like I was doing. The fiber
shedding still occurred but I just swabbed the block
with a sponge after every fourth print or so. I let
the papers rest for a day and then resumed printing
the last and final key block but the shedding was
REALLY BAD. The fine areas were fine but the solid
areas shed to the extent that grainy balded areas
appeared. Now, I've pulled editions of a hundred from
similar blocks on mulberry which was not sized and
this paper was sized. I checked to make sure I was
printing on the right size and even dried them out and
rewetted the papers all to the same effect. NOTHING
is working and I've decided to ditch the edition but I
still have some paper left over so what could I have
possibly done wrong to piss off the Edworthia spirits?

-Lana

You can out-distance that which is running after you, but not what is
running inside you. -Rwandan Proverb

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Message 14
From: Barbara Mason
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 21:59:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Baren 30797] Re: proofing
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Bobbi.
www.graphicchemical.com has lots of papers of all kinds
www.hiromipaper.com has oriental paper of every kind imaginable
www.takachpaper.com has lots of western papers
www.imcclains.com has paper for moku hanga
http://aikosart.com/ Aikos in Chicago has all kinds of oriental paper...one of the highlights of my trip there
www.barenforum.org/mall has lots of paper for moku hanga, including Yamaguchi and Iwano paper that is some of the best in the world for Japanese woodblock
This should keep you busy for a few hours!
Best to all,
Barbara

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