Today's postings

  1. [Baren 31112] Re: linoleum (edmund #
  2. [Baren 31113] Re: baren forum - attending and group exhibit (Charles Morgan)
  3. [Baren 31114] linoleum ("hanna_platt #")
  4. [Baren 31115] Re: linoleum (ArtSpotiB #
  5. [Baren 31116] Re: linoleum (edmund #
  6. [Baren 31120] Re: linoleum (Kris Shanks)
  7. [Baren 31121] Baren Member blogs: Update Notification (Blog Manager)
  8. [Baren 31122] Dave's mistake (Barbara Mason)
  9. [Baren 31123] Re:Lino carving (Jan Telfer)
  10. [Baren 31124] Re: preparing linoleum (edmund #
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Message 1
From: edmund #
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2006 10:51:46 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Baren 31112] Re: linoleum
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I've never used Blick's tan linoleum, but the local art supply store
stocks Richeson's tan linoleum blocks, and they're quite enjoyable to work
with. They compare very nicely to standard battleship gray, in my

== M

> I just received a new shipment of linoleum from Blick, and it's a tan
> color and rather rough. I usually work on the very smooth gray
> linoleum (or wood) and haven't encountered this material before. Do
> any of you have suggestions for preparing the surface of the linoleum
> before carving and printing?
> thanks!
> Kris Shanks
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Message 2
From: Charles Morgan
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2006 08:32:42 -0700
Subject: [Baren 31113] Re: baren forum - attending and group exhibit
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I would like to take you up on your kind offer. I should be clear about
what I want to send in another week or so, if that is all right.

Cheers ..... Charles
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Message 3
From: "hanna_platt #"
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2006 12:01:02 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Baren 31114] linoleum
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it also helps if you heat the linoleum up a bit on a hot plate or with a blow drier this will make it easy to cut. like butter
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Message 4
From: ArtSpotiB #
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2006 20:31:43 EDT
Subject: [Baren 31115] Re: linoleum
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I'm a linocutter. There is a trick.... warm up the lino using sunlight, a
lamp (those reading lamps with an arm that bends are terrific. Mine are the ones
that start fires!) or an iron. If it does not cut cleanly, let it cool for a
short time. (looks crumbly).

I've not tried DSmith's tan lino. I hope it's not the kind that has bits of
"grout" (to use a ceramics term) to make it more durable. I've stuck to the
battleship grey. I avoid all other suppliers because the kind with the bits of
"grout" in it tend to dull tools rapidly.


Benny Alba
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Message 5
From: edmund #
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2006 20:40:44 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Baren 31116] Re: linoleum
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Hi Benny,

I've not noticed any "grout" in the Richeson lino, and my blades didn't
dull any faster than they normally do. Doesn't mean that it doesn't have
it, only that I've not noticed it. It just cut beautifully, and I have no
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Message 6
From: Kris Shanks
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2006 20:49:03 -0700
Subject: [Baren 31120] Re: linoleum
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Thanks for all the suggestions! I managed to get the surface smooth
enough to print cleanly, but I don't like carving the stuff. It's
sort of grainy and rubbery, and it dulls tools rather quickly. The
only positive side I can see is that it's a bit thicker than the gray
linoleum. Well, and it was cheap. Here's the first print working with

Kris Shanks
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Message 7
From: Blog Manager
Date: 21 Jun 2006 03:55:08 -0000
Subject: [Baren 31121] Baren Member blogs: Update Notification
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This is an automatic update message being sent to [Baren] by the forum blog software.

The following new entries were found on the listed printmaker's websites during the past 24 hours. (21 sites checked, five minutes before midnight Eastern time)


Site Name: David Bull, Woodblock Printmaker

Item: Scroll Project Update: Video contest closes ... six winners ... answer posted!


Site Name: m.Lee Fine Art

Author: m.Lee
Item: Changed my mind on this one


Site Name: Depicture

Author: Miss


[Baren] members: if you have a printmaking blog (or a website with a published ATOM feed), and wish it to be included in this daily checklist, please write to the Baren Blog Manager at:

For reference, sites/blogs currently being checked are:
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Message 8
From: Barbara Mason
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2006 21:38:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Baren 31122] Dave's mistake
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I looked at your work on the scroll frame by frame but did not find the mistake....amzing it took a month for people to see what is so obvious once you pointed it out to us. I am sure you really laughed at yourself when it happened. I think we all do this kind of thing but usually the camera is not on us when it happens and we just forget about it immediately and hope it is not when driving or doing something equally important were we miss a standard step in our daily lives.

I recently donated a pile of other people's prints to one of my favorite charities and after I sent them off to be sold I realized I had not included one moku hanga print from my collection. I don't know if that means I value them more personally or not..but I thought it was interesting that I subconsiously kept them all. Maybe I cannot stand to break up an exchange and maybe I cannot give away anything someone worked so very hard on. I am unsure. At any rate, I still have ALL the Japanese waterbased prints.

The whole donation was precipitated by a conversation with my husband...I said "do you think my print collection will be at the Goodwill when I die?" and my husband said "it will not make it that far, the kids will just toss it into the garbage..." What a terrible thought, so decided I am going to find homes for the lions share of it. Selling some of it for charity seemed a good idea as I cannot believe how many prints I had.. Now I have one empty drawer!
Carpe Diem.....make more prints!
Best to all,
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Message 9
From: Jan Telfer
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2006 13:03:10 +0800
Subject: [Baren 31123] Re:Lino carving
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Dear Kris,

The brown lino is tougher and coarser than the silk cut grey, but both
work just as well and both print the same.

Before carving the brown lino it is advisable to warm it slightly
before cutting it as it will soften with heat....warm to the feel.
But "warm it" don't "cook it" as it will melt and can become brittle if
subjected to a lot of heat over time.
The best warming device is probably one of those electric table top
food warmers that kept food warm from underneath.
Put the lino down on its "bottom". Feel the top from time to
time....doesn't take long..... better on a low heat for longer than a
high heat for a shorter time limit. Don't burn your fingers as that

Hope this helps, Kris.

Perth, W. Australia
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Message 10
From: edmund #
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2006 07:26:06 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Baren 31124] Re: preparing linoleum
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Thanks Clive. I'd wondered if anyone had ever tried that.

> Hi Kris, since lino is made from cork and linseed oil I usually put a
> bit of linseed oil or it's more refined version, flax oil, on the plate
> then sand the surface smooth with a very fine grade 'wet or dry'
> sandpaper. Be sure to move in a circular motion and sand all areas
> equally. I do the same thing on smooth lino as well, it helps the
> surface accept ink more readily. Sometimes helps to make the oil more
> viscous with a bit of paint thinner. Be sure to wear rubber gloves if
> you use the paint thinner or varsol, that stuff is nasty.
> Clive