Today's postings

  1. [Baren 33067] Re: Paper size and Theme for exchange#33 which opens for sign-up April 1 (Nancy McMahon-Cox)
  2. [Baren 33068] RE: using waterbased moku hanga inks on blocks that have been used previously for oil based? ("Mike Lyon")
  3. [Baren 33069] Re: Exchange 32? (Diane Cutter)
  4. [Baren 33070] Re: Baren Digest (old) V38 #3849 ("Marilynn Smith")
  5. [Baren 33071] Re: using waterbased moku hanga inks on blocks that have been used previously for oil based? ("Marissa ")
  6. [Baren 33072] Re: using waterbased moku hanga inks on blocks that have been used previously for oil based? ("Mike Lyon")
  7. [Baren 33073] Re: using waterbased moku hanga inks on blocks that have been used previously for oil based? ("Mann, Ryan")
Member image

Message 1
From: Nancy McMahon-Cox
Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2007 09:02:53 -0500
Subject: [Baren 33067] Re: Paper size and Theme for exchange#33 which opens for sign-up April 1
Send Message: To this poster

Hi Terry,
How big is the etching press, who is the manufacturer and how much do
you want for it?
Please answer off the list at mcnancy#rcn.com or
giuliano106#hotmail.com
Thanks - Ian Ox
Member image

Message 2
From: "Mike Lyon"
Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2007 09:25:52 -0500
Subject: [Baren 33068] RE: using waterbased moku hanga inks on blocks that have been used previously for oil based?
Send Message: To this poster

Hi, Marissa -- you can use 'em, but after oily printing they won't be as
absorbent as un-finished wood and will print lighter. If the blocks have
too much 'finish' and water beads up on them, you can try adding a bit of
tooth to the surfaces with some fine sandpaper - but as you go along, you'll
continue to carve new blocks and those will probably work better. Some
printers (Helen Frankenthaler comes to mind) sealed areas of their blocks
(shellac and polyurethane and similar do a good job of this) in order to get
a somewhat subtle and painterly variation in color between sealed and
unsealed areas of the block. You can mix and match during printing as well
- by printing oily first, then printing watery, the water-borne pigment will
tend to sink deeply into unprinted areas of the paper and hardly at all into
the inky areas. After printing water-borne, you can over-print oily to your
heart's content, of course. I suspect you'll 'get off' on all the
variations and effects.



Mike Lyon
Kansas City, MO
http://mlyon.com





_____
>I'm an oil based printmaker but recently have been growing really tempted to
>try moku hanga. Before I make an investment in supplies I have a few
>questions about the process. My big one is can my old oil ink stained blocks
>be used in moku hanga or do I need fresh blocks?
>
>--
>~marissa lee
>
>www.mleefineart.com
Member image

Message 3
From: Diane Cutter
Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2007 09:16:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Baren 33069] Re: Exchange 32?
Send Message: To this poster

The Baren Forum Exchange #32 is well under way. As your happy-camper coordinator, I've contacted all participants by email but I have not heard from the following yet:

Viza Arlington
Julio Rodriguez
Jae Sullivan
Barbara Patera
Steffan Ziegler
Jean Womack
Gilda Machado-Zimmerling
Su Tamsett
Ld Lawrence
Jason Engelhardt (yours bounced back to me, Jason)
Jeanne Norman Chase
Korbie Rogge

Could those of you on this list please contact me at: coordinator32atbarenforumdotorg. I need to know your status (whether or not you still plan to participate). Thus far we only have two people left on the waiting list (Rogge and Blank)

Happy creative carving!
Diane

www.dianecutter.com
www.theitinerantartist.blogspot.com
www.DCutter.etsy.com
Member image

Message 4
From: "Marilynn Smith"
Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2007 09:16:44 -0700
Subject: [Baren 33070] Re: Baren Digest (old) V38 #3849
Send Message: To this poster

Marissa, remember my sad little block that was all blotchy when I tried to
print it hanga style??? It was because I had oiled the wood to make it
easier to carve. OIL AND WATER DO NOT MIX. NO NO you can not use your
oiled blocks for moku hanga, carve a new one.
Marilynn
Member image

Message 5
From: "Marissa "
Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2007 13:06:38 -0400
Subject: [Baren 33071] Re: using waterbased moku hanga inks on blocks that have been used previously for oil based?
Send Message: To this poster

Thank you both so much! Now I just need to decide if I want to make the $
investment right now. I would love to take a workshop on it but looking
around the closest available to me appears to be in Conneticut. It looks
like April Vollmer taught a class at Mixit in the past, but it doesn't look
like she will be back anytime soon. It just doesn't seem all that popular
here in Boston. I have a nice set of gouache paint that I could use for
pigment (at least until I decide I like it and want an upgrade) so all I
would neet to start would be brushes, paper and rice paste I believe. Is the
premixed nori really worthless?

~marissa
Member image

Message 6
From: "Mike Lyon"
Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2007 12:52:45 -0500
Subject: [Baren 33072] Re: using waterbased moku hanga inks on blocks that have been used previously for oil based?
Send Message: To this poster

Wesleyan University's printmaking department offers moku-hanga instruction -
you'll have to contact them to see whether there's any option for you there.
Instructor is Keiji Shinohara - you can watch excellent video of his
technique at http://learningobjects_devel.wesleyan.edu/blockprinting/



April Vollmer's a sweetheart (you'll like her) - contact her via
http://aprilvollmer.com for current workshop
schedule in NYC - it's a quick flight on the shuttle and I bet the two of
you could work something out



Gouache is opaque watercolor - works fine for hanga, but has its own
'flavor' - be sure to experiment with transparent water colors - they'll
likely be your 'main ingredient'. Prepared watercolors are relatively
expensive - if you get into it, you're going to want to use pigment
suspensions instead - MUCH more color for the money, and omits all the
unnecessary binders, wetting agents, etc etc in prepared watercolor and
gouache.



Like gouache and watercolor, prepared nori (rice paste) works fine but it's
relatively expensive - dilute what comes out of the jar or tube with water
to taste - normally to 'heavy cream' consistency (same with your watercolors
and gouache) before you dab onto your block during printing. But the dry
powder form is VERY easy (and fun, I think) to cook up - only takes a few
minutes and is much cheaper. Methyl cellulose works just fine, too (behaves
and 'feels' only a little different from rice paste) - you mix it up cold
and let it sit a day or two before use - VERY transparent and strong (and
CHEAP)!



-- Mike



Mike Lyon
Kansas City, MO
http://mlyon.com





_____

From: Marissa [mailto:gabrieceleste@gmail.com]
Sent: Friday, March 30, 2007 12:07 PM
To: baren@ml.asahi-net.or.jp
Subject: [Baren 33071] Re: using waterbased moku hanga inks on blocks that
have been used previously for oil based?



Thank you both so much! Now I just need to decide if I want to make the $
investment right now. I would love to take a workshop on it but looking
around the closest available to me appears to be in Conneticut. It looks
like April Vollmer taught a class at Mixit in the past, but it doesn't look
like she will be back anytime soon. It just doesn't seem all that popular
here in Boston. I have a nice set of gouache paint that I could use for
pigment (at least until I decide I like it and want an upgrade) so all I
would neet to start would be brushes, paper and rice paste I believe. Is the
premixed nori really worthless?

~marissa
Member image

Message 7
From: "Mann, Ryan"
Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2007 12:58:47 -0500
Subject: [Baren 33073] Re: using waterbased moku hanga inks on blocks that have been used previously for oil based?
Send Message: To this poster

Teach yourself!

That's what I'm doing. There's a really good video on the baren website,
although I don't recall where. There a couple of them. There doesn't
seem to be a lot of printmaking going on here even though there is a
great print lab at Univ. North Texas. This is a painter's town.

Rebecca Salter's book is pretty good too. I also like the book aboiut
Gustave Baumann and his technique. He's not strictly Moku Hanga but he
incorporates a lot of bothe the technique and composition. Actually his
stuff is fabulous.

Buy some lauan plywood and cut it into blocks. I use different carving
tools from Flexcut. My brushes are small shoe brushes, stencil brushes,
whatever. They aren't as cool as the Japanese type, but I'm not ready
to shell out the calms for those until I master the basics.

The results haven't been fantastic, but it's a learning process. I find
the carving of the blocks is as much fun as the printing.

And the best advice I heard on this list is: "learn to print black
first!"

Later