Today's postings

  1. [Baren 36594] Re: BAREN etiquette CLOSED (Scholes Graham)
  2. [Baren 36595] Re: Seconded ("Nancy Osadchuk")
  3. [Baren 36596] Re: Gathering gems (Shawn + Elizabeth Newton)
  4. [Baren 36597] RE: rotary tools ("Maria Arango")
  5. [Baren 36598] Baren Member blogs: Update Notification (Blog Manager)
  6. [Baren 36599] Re: vivid secondary colors w/ M.Hanga (Scholes Graham)
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Message 1
From: Scholes Graham
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 00:13:50 GMT
Subject: [Baren 36594] Re: BAREN etiquette CLOSED
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You got that right Maria....

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Message 2
From: "Nancy Osadchuk"
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 00:48:20 GMT
Subject: [Baren 36595] Re: Seconded
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And another second! Back to woodcut...from a Canadian lurker!
Nancy O
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Message 3
From: Shawn + Elizabeth Newton
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 01:27:34 GMT
Subject: [Baren 36596] Re: Gathering gems
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regarding the dremels... i know of one incredible artist who uses a type of rotary tool in his engravings.

jim westergard.
email him w/ any questions. he's a very nice man.
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Message 4
From: "Maria Arango"
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 02:12:16 GMT
Subject: [Baren 36597] RE: rotary tools
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Dremel has come a long way in quality of their rotary tools and they are still the most affordable.
I would highly recommend the cordless model, and probably two of them so that one is always ready to carve.
Another gadget to invest in is the "pen-like" attachment (flexible shaft), which will allow you to carve as if you are drawing with a pen. Variable speeds are a great feature as well.

The Foredom is indeed quite superior, one advantage is the variable speed setting which is essential if you carve different types of wood. Also, the rpms are higher so there is no "fuzz" left at all as long as your bits are sharp.
I scored about 700 old dental drill-bits on ebay a while back so I'm set for life! There is a wide variety of drills and other interesting things that I would never want in my mouth.

Here are other choices including the reciprocating carvers that Graham mentioned.
Incidentally, you can interchange a reciprocating attachment on your rotary tools, nifty to have both. I don't use the reciprocating tools much but they do a fine job of clearing blocks in a jiffy.

As for the "marks" the rotary tools leave, they are kind of "wormy" for my taste, too equal in width and sort of mechanical looking. But as has been mentioned, control is everything and you can get some very fine details on engravings by holding the bits at an angle to the blocks.
However for random marks and exciting effects, the rotary tools can add a variety of unique marks.

The fuzz can be swiftly removed by sanding very lightly with 320 grit sandpaper; use a block so the edges of the carving won't be rounded. And a good investment if anyone has hand/wrist problems are shock-absorbing gloves.

All that said, I still carve most of my work with the ol' Flexcut set and Japanese array of knives.
Here is another nifty gadget that keeps them all within hands reach and organized forever (works for knives and chisels, ink knives, and small brayers, I magnetized my entire studio!):

Hope this helps,

Maria Arango
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Message 5
From: Blog Manager
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 03:56:09 GMT
Subject: [Baren 36598] Baren Member blogs: Update Notification
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This is an automatic update message being sent to [Baren] by the forum blog software.

The following new entries were found on the listed printmaker's websites during the past 24 hours. (51 sites checked, five minutes before midnight Eastern time)


Site Name: Woodblock Dreams

Author: Annie B
Item: Deep Water Print


Site Name: A Printmakers Blog About Art and Printmaking

Author: Debra Percival
Item: In the Beginning - One With Copper


[Baren] members: if you have a printmaking blog (or a website with a published ATOM feed), and wish it to be included in this daily checklist, please write to the Baren Blog Manager at:

For reference, sites/blogs currently being checked are:
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Message 6
From: Scholes Graham
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 04:09:05 GMT
Subject: [Baren 36599] Re: vivid secondary colors w/ M.Hanga
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You probably know about the system of colours ...... CMYK (for Cyan,
Magenta, Yellow, and blacK).
These are process colours use in all printed matter using the Colour
method were 3 Panatone standards used.

When you investigate this further... lots of stuff on the web.... you
will find that
cobalt blue in not a process colour. The closest I have found and
know well in the
watercolour pigments by Winsor Newton are .... Winsor Blue, Winsor
Yellow and Permanent Rose.
They are extremely transparent colours and with these three colours
you can mix and match and arrive at almost any colour
you care to mix.... There are some exceptions .... ie - white is
required to mix
Cerulean Blue colour. I have added to this palette a few convenient
colours such as
Ultramarine Blue, Burnt Sienna, Raw Sienna, three other reds, two more
and a few others.

I do not use Winsor Newton pigments... too expensive for moka hanga
but man/girl (gotta be gender correct) they are the best.
I have a range of colours that are dispersant type which I purchased
here in Victoria BC .... see for
the dispersants. I have heard favorable feedback about these.

There is no reason you cannot overlay colours to arrive at the colour
you want... I do it all the time.
The secret is to make sure you use the purest CMYK you can find.
Cobalt blue is not a cyan and
you can not get fresh colours with overlay or mix with others.
Brightness can somewhat be controlled...
If you print “blue over yellow“ you will get a duller green than if
you print “yellow over blue“.
This takes some experimenting and eventually you will get the hang of

Have fun.
Regards Graham

PS Someone suggested Powder pigments.... the video you asked about has
a detailed explanation about mixing them.